We talked about it in our post on things to do around Santa Marta, but it’s always good to repeat things: beaches and villages follow one another all along the coast between Tayrona Park and Riohacha.
Today, we’re making our way along the Guajira road, towards Dibulla and more precisely Punta de los Remedios!
A remote village with virtually nothing, where tranquillity reigns.
Here, people don’t wait for you, they live from fishing, there’s no tourist infrastructure yet, there’s nothing. So, if you decide to go there, please do so with the respect of those who enter a stranger’s home. Talk, be interested, enjoy, but be a little yellow bird observing without wanting to disturb. Then, perhaps, you too will return from the Punta de los remedios with your wounds healed.
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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Road to Punta de los remedios
Village near Dibulla en la Guajira
On our return from our meeting with the Seydukwa indigenous community, we decided to head for Punta de los Remedios for two days of rest and relaxation away from the hustle and bustle of Palomino. We didn’t want to stay in Palomino at all, we wanted to stay in the atmosphere of these two emotionally-charged days and let it all rest quietly.
It was doña Luciana, owner of the Hostal Aluna where we were staying in Palomino, who secretly whispered the idea in our ear. As it happens, this very nice lady owns a few Ecolodges-type cabins in Punta de los Remedios, and she sold it to us so well that we couldn’t resist the idea of a quiet getaway for more than 5 minutes.
Luciana calls us a driver, we pack our bags and off we go! Off we go to the “Pointe des Remèdes” just beyond Dibulla, another village highly recommended if you want to get away from the usual destinations.
We hit a torrential rainstorm on the way, and our driver’s old BMW seems to be having a few problems with the water… the windscreen wipers are struggling to work, the headlights to light up, and finally we stop to take stock.
The driver and his buddy get their hands dirty in the pouring water, and we’re off again. We say, “Are you going to be all right?” because it’s dark and we don’t want to get stuck on the road in the middle of nowhere. But our dripping friends want to reassure us, but can’t hide a slightly worried look! Transportation in Colombia is always full of surprises anyway.
We finally arrive at our destination!
Our hotel in Punta de los remedios
PUNTA DE LOS REMEDIOS in La Guajira
Señora Luciana has named her ecolodges “Playa Kai Glamping” in reference to the trendy new concept of glamping, which combines camping and glamour. But as we’re not quite up to speed on the subject, since Glamping consists in offering accommodation in a luxury tent, but a tent nonetheless, we’d prefer to talk about ecolodges here!
Arriving by night, we discover our little haven of peace for the next two days: 4 superb palm-roofed wooden cabins, beautifully appointed and furnished. There’s a small house where you can make your own meals or book a cook, and a relaxation area with sun-protected tables overlooking the sea… well, the view, we’re literally right on the beach! Just great.
We’ve just checked the Kai Glamping booking page to see that new features have been added, including a terrace above the tables, with a net to enjoy life at sunset.
The comfortable bed, the shower with a view of the starry sky, the sound of the ocean… we couldn’ t have dreamt of a better place to rest and recharge our batteries before the last part of our itinerary to the bottom of the Guajira desert.
A timeless village
Punta de Los Remedios in La Guajira
The next day, of course, we slept in! We told you, we’re here to re-po-ser. We didn’t have the courage to go shopping before arriving, preferring instead to pay for the services of a famous cook who lives next door and looks after the huts and welcomes travellers on a daily basis.
The huts are located a few hundred meters outside the village of Punta de los Remedios. We set off to buy water and fruit, and take a stroll through the quiet, almost deserted streets. Two tiendas are open and we find what we’re looking for: girls are doing their hair in the street, getting ready for the “Amor y Amistad” festival, a tradition celebrated throughout the country.
It’s hot, very hot, so in search of shade and a few angles from which to capture this timeless atmosphere, we decide to head home. Careful not to overdo it either!
We go for a swim in the ocean, right at the bottom of the staircase leading straight down to the beach, take a stroll along the beach and spend the day doing nothing but enjoying life..
As the day draws to a close, the sky sets ablaze before our grateful eyes… time for yet another sublime Colombian sunset..
Meeting the fishermen
PUNTA DE LOS REMEDIOS in La Guajira
Having gone to bed early the night before, we woke up at the crack of dawn to see the camarone (shrimp) fishermen at work on the beach. The hut keeper told us about this fishing activity, which is the mainstay of the local population. Quite simply, the village’s entire economy is based on shrimp fishing. Every morning at dawn, the fishermen set out their nets and then bring them back to the beach by hand, keeping their fingers crossed to bring in as many crustaceans as possible.
We set off along the beach at first light, a light mist bathing the horizon, and in the distance we see men busily at work. All around them, in the ocean, in the sky, on the beach, on the path, birds everywhere! Many white and neon-pink wading birds, smartly waiting for their food to be served to them on a platter by the fishermen!
We approach shyly at first, as the mood is not one of relaxation, but of hard work! Not daring to disturb them, we remain spectators at first, taking advantage of the multitude of birds to snap a few nice photos, then approaching the fishermen, we simply ask them if we can take a few photos and naturally strike up a conversation to find out more about their activity.
Finally, we spend a long time chatting with them, and they tell us all about the camarones chain that sustains the village: the fishermen set the big nets at 5am and then bring them back to the beach by hand, then the day’s catch is taken to the village where the women shell it, then the youngsters take it to the people who market it. In this way, all the families in the village survive thanks to the camarones, hanging on every day to find out whether the catch has been good.
Here, we’re in the Media-Guajira region, and the majority of the population is black, Afro-Colombian. The relationship with the indigenous Wayuu is not easy. The fishermen confide in us and explain that they feel abandoned by the government, alone in the world trying to survive as best they can, while the Wayuu receive a great deal of government aid. We listen, without judging.
It’s time to pack up and get back on the road to Riohacha. This enchanted interlude will remain one of our fondest memories of this trip. We hesitated for a long time before deciding whether or not to tell you about this well-hidden place. A year, to be exact.
The people here don’t wait for you, they live off fishing, and there’s no tourist infrastructure yet, apart from 3 or 4 accommodation offers. So, if you decide to visit, please do so with the respect of those who enter a stranger’s home in hushed tones. Talk, take an interest, enjoy, but make yourself a little yellow bird, observing without wanting to disturb. Then, perhaps, you too will return from the Punta de los remedios with your wounds healed.
Where to stay in Punta de los remedios
Punta de los remedios
Eco Lodge
Awatawaa Ecolodge
Double room : $250.000 to $300.000 COP
Finally, another luxury option, completely lost at the tip of the point, quite far from the village but offering great facilities. Lovers beware.
Punta de los remedios
Hostal
Guajira Beach HoStel
Double room : $0 to $100.000 COP
Here’s the low-budget option, a hostal set up in the village by the beach, a mix between a classic hostal with dormitories in a house and bungalows overlooking the sea, a little rootsy but certainly very nice!
Punta de los remedios
Eco Lodge
Playa Kai Glamping
Double room : $250.000 to $300.000 COP
This is where we stayed, and if you’ve read our article, there’s not much to add! 😉 Please note, however, that we’re not talking about backpacker rates, but more Ecolodge-style pleasure rates.
How to get to Punta de Los Remedios
From Santa Marta
- From Santa Marta’s main market, take a bus in the direction of Riohacha
- Ask for the Dibulla stop.
- From there, take a mototaxi or cab to Punta de los Remedios.
From Palomino
By cab
- Fare: $40.000 COP
- Duration: 45 min
By bus
- From the main road, take a bus to Riohacha
- Ask for the Dibulla stop.
- Take a mototaxi or cab to Punta de los remedios
From Riohacha
Bus from Riohacha to Campana
- Fare: $10.000 COP
Cab from Campana to Punta de los Remedios
- Fare: $15.000 COP
Cab from Riohacha to Punta de los Remedios
- Fare: $50.000 COP
