Here’s an post we’ve been dreaming about, writing and researching to try and give you as much information as possible about trekking to El Cocuy National Park!
It’s one of the destinations we’ve put on our bucket list, but haven’t headed for yet. And yet El Cocuy is one of Colombia’s most beautiful natural parks, and surely one of the most beautiful treks you can make on a trip to Colombia, quite simply!
So here’s an post that we hope will inspire you to get out there and discover these breathtaking landscapes.
Be aware of the privilege that will be yours when you tread the high mountain trails of El Cocuy Park, as the park was closed for a long time and only reopened to tourists in April 2017!
Its accessibility remains subject to strict studies on the impact of tourism on the ecosystems and sacred lands of the indigenous U’wa people!
Contents
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General information El Cocuy Natural Park
Name: Sierra Nevada del Cocuy National Natural Park
When to go: All year round
Climate: Cold and humid
Temperatures: between -4°C and 20°C
Best season: December to March
Ecosystems: Paramo and eternal snow
Maximum altitude: 5400m
Surface area: 3000 km2
Region: Andes
County: Boyacá Boyacá (Arauca and Casanare)
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
General information on El Cocuy National Park
HISTORY, RULES, REGISTRATION
El Cocuy National Park is located in the Boyaca department of eastern Colombia, near the border with Venezuela. The park is made up of almost 150 high-altitude lakes and more than 25 snow-capped peaks, ranging from 4.800 to 5.330 metres: Campanillas Blanco, Pan de Azúcar, Púlpito del Diablo, Cóncavos, Ritakuwas y Güicán… It is the largest glacial mass in Colombia.
El Cocuy National Park is a protected area that also includes a paramo, a typical Colombian mountain ecosystem, and a forest that is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna.
The village of El Cocuy is a typical village of the region with green and white colors, green representing hope and white representing peace. As elsewhere in Boyaca, the traditional woolen ruana is worn here.
Recent history of El Cocuy National Park
In 2014, multi-day treks were banned due to conflict between the indigenous U’wa people and local farmers over the preservation of the site and the environmental protection of their sacred territory.
In 2016, the entire park was closed to tourism for the same reasons.
In April 2017, part of the park was reopened as a 6-month trial to test the impact of tourism on the park.
Since 2018, only 3 day treks are now accessible and open to tourists.
List of main summits
- Pan de Azúcar (5120 m)
- Diamante (4800 m)
- El Púlpito del Diablo (5100 m)
- Toti (4800 m)
- Portales (4800 m)
- Cóncavo (5200 m)
- Concavaito (5100 m)
- San Pablines Sur (5180 m)
- San Pablines Norte (5200 m)
- Ritacuba (Ita U’wa) Blanco (5330 m)
- Picacho (5030 m)
- Puntiagudo (5200 m)
- Ritacuba (Ita U’wa ) Negro (5300 m)
- El Castillo (5100 m)
- Sin Nombres (5000 m)
- Sirara (5200 m).
Trekking Agency El Cocuy & Güican
Sierra Nevada del Cocuy Natural Park
The 3 treks in El Cocuy Natural Park
TREKS OPEN TO TOURISTS
Tourists are not allowed to stay overnight in the protected area. The entrance to the park is open from 5 to 9 a.m. and reopens from 1 to 6 p.m., after which there must be no more tourists in the park.
Authorized activities can only be carried out up to the edge of the glacier on three trails totalling 25 kilometers. Access to the 3 treks is limited and requires the presence of a local guide, hence the obligation to register at the national park office before trekking.
The 3 possible treks in El Cocuy National Park
Ritacuba Trek
- Distance: 14 km round trip
- Duration: approx. 8 h
- Departure point: 4000 m
- Max. capacity: 40 people per day
- Times: entry permitted from 6 to 8 a.m. max / exit at 5 p.m. max
The trek starts at the northernmost point of the park and takes you to the edge of the Ritacuba Blanco glacier. Paramo landscapes, high-altitude lakes, rock formations sculpted by the glacier and views of the Sin Nombres (5000 m), Ita U’wa Norte (5200 m), U’wa Blanco (5330 m) and Ita U’wa Negro (5300 m) peaks
Laguna Grande Trek
- Distance: 21 km round trip
- Duration: approx. 12 h
- Departure point: 3500 m
- Max. capacity: 140 people per day
- Times: entry permitted from 5.30 to 8 a.m. max / exit at 5 p.m. max
The trek starts in the central part of El Cocuy park, from La Esperanza, and climbs to the edge of the Pico Cóncavo glacier. We pass through the Frailejones valley and the laguna de la Sierra. Views of Cierra de la Plaza (4900 m), El Portillo (4900 m), El Totti (4900 m), El Concavito (5100 m) and El Concavo (5200 m).
Trek de las Lagunillas Pulpito
- Distance: 22 km round trip
- Duration: approx. h
- Start point: 4000 m
- Max. capacity: 66 people per day
- Times: entry permitted from 5:30 to 8 a.m. max / exit at 5 p.m. max
The trek starts at Porton de la Lagunilla at 4.000 m and climbs to the edge of the Pulpito del Diablo glacier. Views of El Pulpito Del Diablo (5070 m), El Pan de Azucar (5100 m), Lagunas del Pan de Azucar, El Totti (4900 m), El Portillo (4900 m).
Local guide mandatory
Trek to Sierra Nevada dEl Cocuy
It is compulsory to be accompanied by a guide to enter the El Cocuy natural park and make the various treks.
A guide can only accompany a group of up to 4 people.
The guide service is provided by local people who have reduced their agricultural activities, which have an impact on the protected area’s ecosystems, and have turned toecotourism as a source of household income.
However, these people carry out their guiding services independently and have no working relationship with Colombia’s national nature parks.
Contact a local guide
A list of professional local guides authorized to accompany tourists on a trek in El Cocuy National Park has been published by the Colombian National Park Service:
You can prepare your visit by contacting the guides in El Cocuy and Güicán de la Sierra directly.
You can also organize all this by contacting the accommodation where you intend to stay.
Contacter Maria Paula para planear tu viaje al Cocuy
Responsible tourism
Trek to El Cocuy National Park
El Cocuy National Park is located on territory sacred to the U’wa Indians. The territory of the indigenous reserve is closed to tourism, so it is forbidden to travel along the eastern flank of the Sierra.
Conflicts with the indigenous people over environmental issues in recent years have led to the temporary closure of the park, and to a rethinking of how to operate in a more respectful manner. As a tourist, you should therefore adopt a responsible attitude.
Raising awareness
Anyone wishing to enter the Park must register in person at the offices and receive theobligatory introductory talk (15 minutes) to ensure that their behavior in the protected area is appropriate and does not generate impacts on the ecosystem, thus collaborating with conservation efforts.
Rules
- Horse riding is forbidden: horses chew and trample frailejones and other plants, widen trails and pollute the water sources that supply the local population.
- The consumption of intoxicating beverages and psychoactive substances in the protected area is prohibited.
- The extraction of fauna, flora and minerals from the Park is prohibited because it threatens the integrity of the ecosystem. –
- Do not alter, modify or remove signs, notices, fences or landmarks, or cause damage to park facilities or equipment for your safety and comfort.
- Do not hunt or disturb wildlife in the park.
- It is forbidden to handle or walk on the snow, which is the source of water and sacred to the indigenous U’wa people.
- Don’t make any noise that might disturb wildlife in the park.
- Walk only on authorized trails, always accompanied by a guide.
- Store the waste you generate during your visit and remove it when you leave the protected area, including biodegradable waste.
Security
Entry to El Cocuy National Park is forbidden to children under 10 for public health reasons.
When trekking in El Cocuy National Park, it is not uncommon to experience symptoms of altitude sickness: speak to your guide immediately and, if necessary, don’t hesitate to descend as quickly as possible.
The weather is very changeable in the mountains, visibility can drop very quickly, and it can become very complicated to find your way around. Temperatures can also drop very quickly, and hypothermia combined with rain can become a real problem.
That’s why, whether here in El Cocuy Park or elsewhere in Colombia, we strongly advise against hiking alone in Colombia.
When visibility is poor, you should wait for conditions to improve, find shelter, cover up as much as possible and, above all, stick together, don’t let anyone “find the way”.
You can find your way by following the mountain signs (kerns or landmarks). Always stay on the path and connected to your group.
Contacter Maria Paula para planear tu viaje al Cocuy
Best season Trek to El Cocuy
WHEN TO GO
As far as the weather is concerned, the best time to trek in El Cocuy National Park is during the dry season from December to March.
This is also the high season for national tourism, at least for the months of December and January. It’s the busiest time of the year in the village of El Cocuy and in the park.
That said, it’s ideal if you want to be able to get there and easily find fellow travel lers to share the cost of transport and your guide for the various treks.
In low season, the crowds are lower and you’ll have the impression ofhaving the mountains all to yourself! But it’s bound to be harder to find other partners on the spot to share the costs.
As for the weather, in the off-season it can be difficult, but it can also be perfectly practicable. So it’s best to check the weather forecast before committing to the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy National Park.
Acclimatization to altitude sickness
ADVICE ON HEALTH AND SAFETY IN THE MOUNTAINS
Ideally, don’t set off headlong on day 1, but leave yourself plenty of time to acclimatize to the altitude. There are plenty of short walks to do before embarking on the Cocuy treks, which all start at around 4.000 m and reach altitudes of over 5.000 m at the foot of the glaciers… this is VERY high mountain country, with all the dangers that entails. Don’t underestimate these dangers.
Mountain sickness symptoms to watch out for
If you experience shivering, dizziness, headaches, coughing, shortness of breath or congestion, you should stop for a rest and inform your guide. If symptoms continue, you should descend immediately, as this could be the onset of life-threatening pulmonary or cerebral oedema.
Health and altitude sickness
Due to the physical demands of trekking and the altitude, children under 10 years of age are forbidden to enter the Park. Hiking in El Cocuy Park is also not recommended for people with physical disabilities, cardiovascular or respiratory problems, pregnant women or the elderly.
Arriving in the area a day or more before the climb will allow you to acclimatize to the altitude and avoid altitude sickness or soroche, which can even cause death.
Ideal acclimatization schedule
- Day 1 – Transport and arrival at El Cocuy (2750 m): rest.
Night in El Cocuy - Day 2 – Formalities and altitude acclimatization: a short hike of a few hours in the surrounding area can help with this, try to climb to 4000 m if possible. Drinking “agua de coca” also helps to acclimatize to the altitude. If you’re not offered one, don’t hesitate to ask.
Night in Finca for Trek n° 1 - Day 3 – You’re all set for Trek n° 1 of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy!
Overnight in Finca for Trek n° 2 (if you continue)
Guide for trekking in El Cocuy National Park
If you’re looking for an agency to organize treks in El Cocuy and Güican National Park, we recommend you contact our local partner, who offers 1 to 5-day excursions from the village of El Cocuy.
Prices and practical info
Park entrance fees
- Foreigners = $85.000 COP
- Colombian +25yo = $41.500 COP
- Colombians under 25yo = $24.500 COP
Park admission is valid for 4 days. After 4 days, you’ll have to pay again if you wish to do one of the three authorized treks.
Registration
Registration at the El Cocuy National Park Office is compulsory: offices are located in the villages of Güicán or El Cocuy. It is not possible to register for the entrances and departures of the various treks.
Please note: offices close at 5:30 p.m.
El Cocuy office, Boyacá
- Address: Carrera 3 No 10 – 03 Barrio Chapinero. Telephone: 0057 8 789 03 59.
- Opening hours: Monday to Sunday, 8 to 12 p.m. and 1:30 to 5:30 p.m.
- Mail: ecoturismococuy@parquesnacionales.gov.co
Güicán de la Sierra office
- Address: Transversal 4ª # 6-60. Telephone: 0057 8 789 72 80.
- Opening hours: Monday to Sunday, 8 to 12 p.m. and 1:30 to 5:30 p.m.
Compulsory insurance
Before entering El Cocuy Nature Park, it is compulsory to take out insurance to cover the days you will be staying in the Park. Insurance can be purchased in the municipalities of El Cocuy and Güicán.
- Cost: $7.000 COP per day. You will also need to pay for insurance for your guide.
- Remember: a guide is required to enter El Cocuy National Park.
Finding a local guide
It’s possible to hire a guide directly on site, but it’ s best to make arrangements in advance of your arrival by contacting your hotel or the local guides directly.
Guide rates
- Price for a guide: between $100.000 and $120.000 COP per day.
- Group of 4 people max. This price can be shared if you arrive in a group or if you find local people to accompany you. Your guide himself may suggest that you join a group already formed.
Contact a guide
A list of professional local guides authorized to enter El Cocuy National Park has been published by Colombia’s National Park Service:
You can prepare your visit by contacting a guide in El Cocuy or Güicán de la Sierra directly.
Equipment required
General recommendations
- Wear sunglasses with UV protection.
- Hydration (minimum 4 liters of water per day recommended)
- Whatever the weather conditions, always wear sunscreen with protection factor 50.
- Wear waterproof clothing and footwear.
- If you are ill or taking medication, consult your doctor before your trip.
Recommended equipment
The Sierra Nevada del Cocuy National Park is a very high mountain area, and temperatures can be particularly cold, even for a tropical country like Colombia. So expect cold, wet weather.
- Waterproof jacket
- Waterproof hiking boots
- Fleece jacket
- Technical pants (quick-drying) or waterproof pants
- Warm socks
- Rucksack
- Water bottle
- Hat (you can buy one on site)
- Gloves (you can buy one on site)
- Personal trek provisions (cereal bars, cakes, dried fruit, etc.)
- Warm underwear – wool is best! And for a warm night’s sleep, it’s perfect.
- Camera (don’t forget your spare batteries)
- Optional: Sleeping bag, but not really useful, as all accommodations have the necessary blankets for a warm night’s sleep
Where to stay in El Cocuy
Accommodation is available in the villages of El Cocuy and Guican, and in fincas on the outskirts of the park. Reservations are recommended.
Accommodation in El Cocuy and Guican
Here’s a short list of highly recommended accommodations:
El Cocuy, the best hotels
Hotel
Hotel Brisas del nevado
Double room : $0 to $100.000 COP
Located a little higher up, in Guican, the Brisas del nevado hotel welcomes you in a very mountain chalet atmosphere. The owner will prepare delicious meals and help you prepare for your hikes.
El Cocuy, the best hotels
Finca
Hotel Pinares del Carrizalito
Double room : $100.000 to $150.000 COP
A house full of light and life and a fabulous view of the valley! This is what awaits you just a few km from El Cocuy. A family welcome and the opportunity to take advantage of the owners’ valuable advice and contacts to go hiking.
El Cocuy, the best hotels
Hostal
El caminante Hostal
Double room : $0 to $100.000 COP
A hostal recommended by one of our readers, low prices and like almost all the accommodations on site have guides available to accompany you on the various hikes in El Cocuy.
Restaurants in El Cocuy and Guican
Please note that most of the restaurants on site are hotel restaurants and close at 8 p.m..
Sleeping in fincas close to trekking routes
Located at altitudes of between 3.500 m and 4.000 m, these fincas ensure you’ll be as close as possible to the start of the various treks. That said, beware of acclimatization! We recommend that you spend the first night in El Cocuy.
Lodging close to Trek Ritacuba
Posada Sierra Nevada
- Tel: 573 112 378 619
- 20-minute walk from the start of the trek.
Kanwara Cabañas
- Tel: 573 112 316 004
- Located at the start of the trek.
Peñas Blancas
- Tel: 573 112 417 115
- Located 45 min walk from the start of the trek (transport available)
Lodging close to Trek Laguna Grande de la Sierra
Hacienda La Esperanza
- Tel: 573 142 212 473
- Facebook :
- Located at the start of the trek.
La Capilla
- Tel : 573 133 220 593
- Located 2 km from the start of the trek (transport available)
Lodging close to Trek Lagunillas El Pulpito
Cabañas El Pulpito
- Tel: 573 133 099 734 / 573 214 350 342 / 573 132 185 044
- Mail: turismococuy@gmail.com
- Located as close as possible to the start of the trek (transport available)
Guaicany
- Tel: 573 105 667 554
- Located as close as possible to the start (transport available)
How to get to El Cocuy
Transportation from village to trailhead
The “lechero truck
This is literally a truck that collects milk from the various farms. You travel standing up in the open air (beware of the cold).
- Fare: $10.000 COP
- Departure: between 5 and 6 a.m. from El Cocuy’s central square
- Duration: 2 h
Municipal bus
Another option, the municipal or school bus will take you to the summits, a good alternative to the lechero truck, and if you’re alone or in pairs, a more economical solution than the private vehicle.
- Fares: $20.000 COP
Private transport
If you want a quicker, more practical solution, you can also hire a“private car or motorcycle ” to take you directly to your finca or to the start of your trek.
Your guide can offer you this service, as can the national park office, or just give your finca a call and we’ll find a solution for you.
- Price: approx. $80.000 COP (car) and $30.000 COP (motorcycle)
- Duration: 1 hour
Transport to El Cocuy
According to feedback from travelers, the hostals on site are used to receiving tourists late at night.
Direct from Bogotá
- Take the bus to El Cocuy / Guican
- Terminal Salitre (Zone 3 / Red)
- Fare: approx. $65.000 COP
- Duration: 10 to 14 h
- Timetable: 6 a.m., 6.30 p.m., 8.30 p.m.
- Bus companies: Coflonorte Libertadores / Expresso Paz de Rio
From Medellin to Tunja
- Take a bus to Tunja
- Terminal del Norte
- Fare: approx. $80.000 COP
- Duration: 12 h
- Bus company: Omega Bus
From San Gil to Tunja
- Take the bus in the direction of Tunja (it may look strange looking at the map, but it’s the safest and easiest route)
- Fare: approx. $40.000 COP
- Duration: 4 to 5 h (departures every hour)
- Bus company: Concorde
Direct from Tunja
- Take a direct bus to El Cocuy
- Fare: approx. $40.000 COP
- Duration: 8 to 10 h
- Timetable: 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
From Bucaramanga
This route can be problematic due to bad weather, so if you have the choice, don’t hesitate to opt for another access route, for example from San Gil if you intend to pass through there.
- Take the bus to El Capitanejo
- Time: 10 to 11 h
- Once in El Capitanejo, take the bus to El Cocuy
- Duration: 3 to 4 h
Return transport from El Cocuy
El Cocuy – Tunja
- Fare: approx. $40.000 COP
- Duration: 8 to 10h
- Times: 4 a.m., 6.30 a.m., 11 a.m., 6 p.m., 6.30 p.m., 8.30 p.m.
- Bus companies: Coflonorte Libertadores / Expresso Paz de Rio
El Cocuy – Bogota
- Fare: approx. $70.000 COP
- Duration: 10 to 14h
- Times: 4 a.m., 6.30 a.m., 11 a.m., 6 p.m., 6.30 p.m., 8.30 p.m.
- Bus companies: Coflonorte Libertadores / Expresso Paz de Rio
- Buy your bus ticket at the main plaza del Cocuy (if any of you have more information on this subject, schedules, companies, fares, we’d love to hear from you)
