Blacks and Whites’ Carnival, all you need to know!

We were lucky enough to attend the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival in Pasto and we can tell you one thing: it’s CRAZY!

The Carnaval de Negros y Blancos is the most beautiful carnival in Colombia (and by far) and if you have the chance to be in Colombia in the first days of January it is, in our opinion, an event you really shouldn’t miss.

In this article we tell you all about our experience during the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival and all the information to be able to take part in it. It will also be an opportunity for you to discover the incredible department of Nariño which offers an incredible cultural and natural diversity as only Colombia can.

Our experience at the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival

The most beautiful carnival in Colombia

We arrived on January 2 in Pasto by plane from Bogotá. The airport located outside the capital of Nariño is known for being one of the most difficult to access for airplane pilots and the landing approach is likely to cause many disturbances. For us, none of that! The arrival between the Andes mountains that get closer and closer is impressive and beautiful, that’s for sure.

We take a bus toward the Pasto terminal where taxis are waiting to take us to our hotel, at Fernanda and Simon’s, located a stone’s throw from Nariño square in the heart of the city.

To tell the truth, although we have wanted to come to the Carnaval de Negros y Blancos for years, we do not really know what to expect. Fernanda and Simon will be great at advising us to explain how the carnival works, the pitfalls to avoid and above all, the proper outfit to wear!

First step, buy a poncho and ski goggles to be able to protect ourselves as best as possible. Then we go enjoy the first concert of the evening in the square. As soon as we leave the hotel, the tone is set. It’s war! With our clean outfits, we are ideal targets and it won’t take 5 minutes to receive the first blasts of carioca foam, the first paint on our faces and the first swirls of talc.

There are three types of carnival-goers: those who attack and are ready for battle, those who receive but are ready to fight back, and the zen masters who do not enter into conflict even if they are attacked. We opted for the third solution. Accepting to be attacked with a smile without retaliation was our kind tactic to avoid ending up covered from head to toe! It works.

During these 4 days of Carnival we were really impressed by the atmosphere that reigns everywhere in the city. It’s a huge celebration, it’s excitement everywhere, concerts almost all day long until the evening, the whole city is completely covered with white talc that people throw at each other all day. During each trip, you’re never safe from being caught in a battle! But all of it in an overall friendly atmosphere.

The parades on January 3 and January 6 are truly sublime (with a preference for the one on January 3). In short, for us, the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival is an event to experience at least once in your life!

January 3 – Canto a la tierra

The most beautiful parade of the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival

It’s the big day! It is January 3 and it is the day of the “Canto a la Tierra” (Song to the Earth) parade. The one we are eagerly waiting for. We are lucky to be accredited to be able to move inside the “senda” (the parade route).

Thanks to our friend Pablo (photographer from Pasto), we choose a privileged spot that will allow us to admire and photograph one by one all the groups participating in this tribute to the Earth and to Indigenous cultures.

It is a magical moment! The “Canto a la tierra” parade is truly incredibly beautiful. The quality of the music, the choreographies, and the costumes is simply exceptional. Few words can describe this event, you have to experience it.

We were totally captivated by the beauty of this parade not to be missed under any circumstances. For us it is the most beautiful parade of the carnival, a huge favorite!

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January 4 – Artists’ workshops

Carnaval de Negros y Blancos

On January 4 the “Castañeda family” parade takes place. It is a more informal parade, without a real theme, without participant selection, where in spirit everyone can take part. It is also a slightly particular day when the “juego” is at its peak. So overall it is a bit of an anarchic atmosphere, a big mess everywhere in the city, and many people take the opportunity to leave the city and visit the surroundings of Pasto.

As for us, we will go visit the workshop of maestro Andrés Barrera, busy finishing his float for the grand final parade! Andrés is one of the most recognized artists of the Carnival.

Each year he is one of the favorites to win first place in the competition. When we arrive the workshop is in full excitement, many small hands are busy finishing the last details of paint on the sculpture of the float. The work is impressive! The maestro explains his concept to us, his passion for this tradition that goes back to his childhood…

January 5 – Dia de Negros

Blacks and Whites’ Carnival

On January 5 it is the Dia de Negros and we are going to enjoy the concerts in Rumipamba Park where music groups from the Pacific from the region around Tumaco take turns performing. We love this music so much and discover new kinds of rhythms and dances.

Traditionally, the Dia de Negros gives rise to the “Juego de Negros” which consists of playing at painting the faces of other participants with black paint. During this day participants respectfully ask others to let themselves have their faces painted with the phrase “una pintica por favor.”

This day is supposed to represent joy and the celebration of a form of fraternity without distinction of ethnicity, belief, or social status.

As explained below, this tradition has its roots in the history of slavery and a revolt that would have given rise to a “free day” for the slaves.

It is only for the past few years that the “Dia de Negros” has been accompanied by tributes to the Afro-Colombian culture of the Pacific with concerts in the city squares. But we are obviously far from the importance given to the “Dia de Blancos.” One can conclude what one wants.

You will have understood, the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival bears witness to the cultural richness and the history of the region, reflecting the fusion of Indigenous, Spanish, and Afro-Colombian traditions.

That said, not all dates of the Carnival carry the same importance:

• The “Dia de Blancos” gives rise to the grand parade of floats and closes the carnival.
• The “Canto a la tierra” was added recently (2005) and gives rise to a sublime parade around Indigenous traditions.
• The “Dia de Negros” does not give rise to any parade.

January 6 – Dia de Blancos

Carnaval de Pasto

On January 6 it is the grand final parade. Again we are privileged to be able to move freely inside the senda to take photos. We always have to pay attention to our camera equipment which regularly risks receiving all types of projectiles. But when the first floats arrive, the show is impressive!

The January 6 parade closes the Carnival with a grand final parade called the “Desfile magno.” It therefore takes place during the “Dia de Blancos” where the main game consists (as throughout the Carnival, in the end) of throwing white talc at each other’s faces.

The festivities include comparsas and masquerades of costumed musicians and dancers, parades of giant papier-mâché figures, and a parade of huge floats more spectacular than the next.

The float parade also gives rise to the contest for the most beautiful float of the Carnival. These floats are subject to a strict selection that takes place a year in advance based on a proposal and then on a day when each participant must show their technique by giving birth to their float concept in miniature format.

Once selected, the maestros get to work to manage to be ready on the big day. The most complex floats require a whole year of work with teams of several dozen people. The floats are often finished at the last minute during the night before the parade!

It is possible during the year to go visit a float workshop and meet these passionate artists who work for the most part for the simple beauty of the art.

This grand parade of January 6 lasts all day and is considered the highlight of the show, the major event that closes the Carnival.