Cerros de Mavecure, the most beautiful landscape in Colombia?

Well, here we are. At long last. After long years of waiting. The propellers are turning. We’re on the plane to Inirida, the border town with Venezuela, the border town between Orinoquia and Amazonia, the border town between the material world and the spirit world.

From Bogotá, the 1h30 flight over the plains and Amazonian forest won’t take too long to realize just how lucky we are.

At the end of the runway, at the end of the road, at the end of the river, are the Cerros de Mavecure. From the first images we discovered in 2015 to the release of the (sublime) film “El Abrazo de la serpiente”, this landscape haunted our nights.

A destination that had taken such a place in our imaginations, that after all these years, this departure provoked a certain fear. As we all know, the greater the anticipation, the greater the risk of disappointment!

In this post, we’ll tell you all about our discovery of the Cerros de Mavecure, this mystical landscape located in the Amazon rainforest of the Guaina department in Colombia.

First day on the Orinoco

Discover the Cerros de Mavecure

We land in Inirida, which welcomes us with its sweltering heat. A motorcycle cab ride later, we arrive at the busy river port.

This is the meeting point for all the indigenous communities who have come by boat from the surrounding area to do their shopping, exchange goods, refuel and leave for faraway lands. Most travel is by lancha on the rivers.

Our guide Fabio welcomes us. He will accompany us during our four days around Inirida. Fabio is an indigenous Curripako. The department of Guainia is 97% indigenous reserves, and the main ethnic groups are the Curripako, Puinave and Sikuani.

We set off on a lancha towards a nature reserve on the Orinoco River, which marks the border between Colombia and Venezuela. The 1h30 journey takes us from river to river: the rio Inirida flows into the rio Guaviare, which in turn flows into the rio Orinoco.

Along the way, we come across numerous boats carrying passengers and supplies of all kinds.

When we arrive at the junction of the Guaviare, Atabapo and Orinoco rivers, a few barges set up like a small floating village welcome boats in need of a little pick-me-up (bar/disco) or staples (small food store).

After a few minutes on the Orinoco River, we pass sublime rock formations reminiscent of the landscapes of Tuparro Natural Park a little further north.

We disembark at the foot of a welcoming palm-roofed wooden building. This nature reserve is a conservation project run by the local operator who is hosting us for these 4 days. And it’s here that we’ll be spending our first night.

After settling in and enjoying a hearty meal, the discussions get lively with our guide Fabio. We have so many questions to ask about the territory and its various indigenous communities. Fabio, like any self-respecting native, is a man of few words.

Over time, we’ve learned several things from the indigenous communities we’ve had the good fortune to meet: not all questions need to be answered, trust needs to be established for tongues to be loosened, and whatever happens, some things need to remain secret.

Today’s activity plunges us straight into the magical realism to which we’ll have to become accustomed during these 4 timeless days. We head for the Rio Atabapo for a swim like no other.

We disembark on a white sand beach and discover for the first time the incredible color of some of the region’s rivers. In this case, a sublime ochre color, because it’s clear and warm!

Smiles are on everyone’s lips. The pleasure is insane. We chat happily with Fabio, who teaches us a few rudiments of Curripaco: Mashia! (Thank you)

Discovering the Cerros de Mavecure

In the heart of Guainia

At dawn the next morning, we were invited for a sporting start to the day, discovering an accrobranche site. To tell the truth, we hadn’t really expected to do this kind of activity when we got here, and we can’t say that it did us much good personally.

Back at camp, we had breakfast before packing our gear to head off in the direction of the Cerros de Mavecure. A 2.5-hour lancha ride on the Rio Inirida to the indigenous community of Venado awaits us.

We know we won’t be welcomed in the community itself, but rather in the tourist reception areas built at the foot of the Cerros.

The lancha ride is an opportunity to reflect on our discoveries and discussions of the previous day. The monotonous forest landscape passes by, the sound of the engine hums and sleep begins to set in. But then, in the distance, the misty peaks of the Cerros appear!

What a thrill it is just to catch a glimpse of these natural monuments that have been awaiting our arrival for so long! As the river meanders, the mountains appear and disappear, playing hide-and-seek with our feelings, until the final bend and the long-awaited climax…

Let’s be clear about this: the landscape is quite different from what we had imagined, and literally exceeds all our expectations. We’re in for a real aesthetic shock, nothing more, nothing less. Shivers, tears, exclamations, it’s all there.

We land at the foot of these stone giants with a profound sense of humility. The place exudes a particular energy, a power that doesn’t say its name, a sensation we’ve rarely experienced on our trips to Colombia.

We are greeted by a member of the Venado community, made up mainly of Puinave natives.

Here, everything is designed to welcome tourists, just as it was the day before: large dormitories with single beds and mosquito nets, an area with large tables for eating, and shared sanitary facilities. And overhead, the majestic Cerros de Mavecure gaze down on us.

We share a first meal based on freshly caught fish, quietly set up our gear, and prepare for a late afternoon stroll around the camp, to a viewpoint over the Cerros to enjoy the suns et (which unfortunately for us this time will be hidden by clouds).

The stone is abrasive and warm, the mood is soothing, and our souls are all focused on what lies ahead: the climb to the summit of Cerro Mavecure.

On top of Cerro Mavecure

On the shoulders of giants

It’s 3.45am when the alarm goes off. The night is still dark and coffee is waiting to wake us up. Armed with our headlamps, we head for the foot of Cerro Mavecure.

The initial effort is intense and takes our bodies by surprise, but it’s short-lived. We can’t see much yet, just a rope, our feet and a goal: to reach the summit.

Our guide tells us that in ancient times, climbing the Mavecure on an empty stomach was the test for choosing the best warriors…

Gradually, the first light of day makes itself felt, and as we approach the summit, the peaks of Cerros Pajarito and Mono are veiled by thick clouds. Will this long-awaited rendezvous be spoiled by the weather?

After a 2-hour hike, we finally reach the summit, drenched in sweat, but excited by the panorama that stretches out before us. The wind is blowing a cape of clouds around the summits of Cerro Pajarito and Cerro Mono.

The vision is mystical.

And then, as day breaks, the weather clears and the mountains reveal themselves in all their splendor.

The scenery is breathtaking.

It’s certainly one of the most beautiful landscapes we’ve ever seen in Colombia.

Words fail to describe what we see, what we feel. This is a time for introspection and gratitude in the face of nature’s breathtaking landscape.

We’d like to stay here for hours, contemplating this masterpiece.

But reality catches up with us. The Cerros de Mavecure, remote and isolated as it is, is a place governed by the laws of tourism. Groups arrive at the summit according to a set schedule, so that everyone can enjoy the site. Tours can only be booked with a local agency and guides from the community.

But before descending, the local Puinave guide who accompanies us tells us the story of the legend of Princess Inirida, straight from ancestral indigenous tradition. And he tells it as if it weren’t part of his own heritage.

A very strange feeling runs through us. A kind of sadness invades us. A sadness that comes from the depths of the Cerros soul, mourning the loss of their identity.

The return journey is like being on a cloud, out of time. During the descent, Fabio continues to distill bits of indigenous knowledge in small, careful bursts. He also tells us about the medicinal plants to be found along the way, and points out the many orchids that grow there as if by magic!

We finally return to camp, and it’s time for breakfast. Did we dream this moment? It’s been a bit like a dream, where you can’t be sure whether you’re awake or just dreaming.

Paradise beaches (or almost)

At the foot of the Cerros de MavEcure

The day began with an explosion of emotions, but other experiences await us that will gradually bring the cursor back down.

We’re taken on a tour of “Yuca Brava” cultivation. Yuca (Cassava) is a plant with several varieties, including “Yuca brava”, which is naturally toxic to humans. Its processing therefore requires a whole series of techniques to make it edible, and this plant is of particular importance to local indigenous cultures.

On the way back, we are offered the privilege of sailing independently on a traditional pirogue called a “curiara”.

Then it’s time to share another meal based on fresh fish. This time, the fish is cooked in palm leaves and smoked in the traditional way over a wood fire.

In the afternoon, this region of a thousand hidden faces has a new surprise in store for us. We set off by lancha towards the Caño San Joaquin, where we discover a totally unreal landscape: immaculate white sandy beaches on a river whose waters are limpid, but blood-red!

The spectacle is mind-boggling.
The moment is magical.

The heat is intense and we spend all our time cooling off in this incredible water. Also because there’s nothing conducive to napping on the beach with the numerous insects that want to taste our fresh flesh…

The return to the late afternoon light offers us a breathtaking landscape, this red river and these golden hues that illuminate the imposing Cerros de Mavecure, nothing is missing. It’s all there. And once again, gratitude.

In the evening, after our last meal, the sky will be clear, the full moon will shine brightly, and just like in the middle of the day we’ll go one last time to the foot of these magical mountains to thank life, nature (and our profession) for these shared moments of eternity.

The next morning we’re off again at the crack of dawn, due to flight schedule changes. But the 2h30 of lancha between dog and wolf will be enough to create this airlock between the magical world of the Cerros de Mavecure and the return to the harsh reality of life.