Is Barichara the most beautiful village in Colombia? That’s what we’ll try to find out in this post, following our discovery of this village in Santander , which we included in our road trip by car from Bogota to Santa Marta.
Barichara is a heritage village located south of Bucaramanga, in the Andes mountains, very close to San Gil. Barichara is considered by many to be the most beautiful village in Colombia, and to tell the truth, we couldn’t wait to find out if its reputation was justified… ?
In this post, we tell you about our discovery of Barichara, what we did there and practical information on how to get there and where to stay.
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
Contents
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Barichara and its preserved architecture
One of Colombia’s most beautiful villages
We’ve just arrived from Guadalupe, where we spent two nights and discovered Las Gachas, another sublime place we recommend you visit. Arriving at San Gil, the road forks and twists up to Barichara, which greets us with a wooden door. After a rainy 2h30 drive from Guadalupe, it’s dark by the time we reach Barichara, the second stage of our road trip between Bogotá and Santa Marta.
Welcome to Barichara!
We set off down the narrow streets of the village to find our hotel, and without thinking twice, we took an old one-way street! Cars honk their horns, we pull over to let them pass, and find ourselves face to face with a policeman..
Following our explanations, and against all expectations, the policeman tells us how to get to our hotel, and tells us to keep going in the wrong direction to get there.
Colombiaaaa, tierra querida.
Pack up, eat and sleep: this is the long-awaited program for the evening. Rinsed from our day at Las Gachas and the road, we head off for dinner at a restaurant close to the hotel, then head home to get some rest.
The next morning, we set off to explore Barichara, in all its glory. What strikes you at first glance is the preservation of the village’s architectural heritage.
Founded in 1705, the village has remained true to its colonial roots: streets paved with huge cut stones, houses with whitewashed walls, wooden doors and windows. No frills here; homogeneity is the watchword.
Barichara, a village of stone
This stone forms the backbone of the houses, the streets and the cathedral. It has shaped the entire village of Barichara and made its reputation. Some of the best stone-cutters in Colombia are reputed to live here. And while this stone can be found in virtually every historic center in Santander, Barichara remains the best-preserved village in the region.
The stone is so emblematic of Barichara that its inhabitants are known as “patiamarillos” which means “yellow feet”, due to the ochre color of this earth, whose dust invades everything and even colors the inhabitants’ shoes!
Traditionally, color isn’t a feature of house facades, but we’ve seen some owners start to paint their doors, shutters or baseboards in color. However, this is a very different aesthetic from the villages of the Eje Cafetero.
Barichara, beautiful and welcoming
The village is built into the side of a mountain, and its sloping alleyways are sure to warm the calves, but also the cameras! This topography gives Barichara a very special photogenic quality, with impressive perspectives. As you climb to the top of the village, you’re treated to a breathtaking view of the sublime cobbled streets and the surrounding mountain landscape.
As you can see, we loved Barichara ! It really is a sublime village, and certainly one of the most beautiful in Colombia, no doubt about it. We loved strolling through the village streets, and really appreciated the kindness of the locals.
As you know, encounters make memories and leave an indelible mark on us. When we look back on a trip, they come back like a boomerang, making one destination stand out more than another.
Barichara will have delighted us with both its beauty and the warmth of its people!
Barichara and its workshops
One of Colombia’s most beautiful villages
When we decided to go and discover Barichara, we immediately asked about local know-how , so we thought we’d go and meet the craftsmen who keep the traditions alive. We love this kind of encounter. As it happens, Barichara is one of the Colombian villages with the mostcraft workshops. But not just any workshops!
There are, of course, many artists who have settled in the village – painters, sculptors, ceramists – and it’s well worth meeting them. But for our part, we preferred to discover two very special workshops that are socially active in Barichara.
Taller de Papel
The first is called “Taller de Papel“, the paper workshop. It’s a workshop that makes all kinds of products from natural, handmade paper. But not just any hands. The hands of village women in difficult circumstances. It’s a project created by the San Lorenzo Foundation, which gives work – and rewarding work at that – to women in financial difficulty (single women with children, or husbands with disabilities, etc.).
On site, it’s possible to visit the workshop, as well as the garden where all the plants are gathered from which fibers can be extracted to make paper. We decide to take the full tour ($8.000 COP), where you can try your hand at papermaking and leave with a leaf as a souvenir.
Hercelia gives us a really interesting tour and explains the project. We chat with the workers who, with smiles on their faces, tell us how pleased they are to be part of this project.
The products are really beautiful and, as you can imagine, we couldn’t help but leave with a superb natural paper poster adorned with a palm leaf in vegetable ink. Here, everything is done by hand, naturally and with passion. An absolute must.
Taller centro dia
The other workshop was a missed appointment, as we arrived too late, in the late afternoon, even though it mainly opens in the morning. The next day, however, we had to leave early, so we couldn’t resist stopping off for a visit – and well done us! Once again, we discovered a great initiative.
It’s called “Taller Centro Dia“, and it’s a workshop for the village’s elderly where products made from Fique are produced.
Fique (or Maguey) is a traditional Andean plant that can be used in a thousand different ways. In the Santander region, it is used to make paper, bags, soles for espadrilles, and so on. Here, Fique is used mainly to make carpets.
We meet Bernarda, the project leader, who in her 70s keeps a watchful eye on project participants.
Everything is made by hand, from spinning the fibers to weaving the rugs and bags. Beautiful looms adorn the old colonial house, the grannies around the table chat while making bags, the atmosphere is soothing.
Bernarda explains how this place and this activity give meaning to the lives of all participants. And here again, what could be more gratifying than to get together, share and feel useful by making objects for others? A must.
Good to know
Where to find the centro dia workshop
It’s not necessarily a well-known place, even among the locals… it doesn’t even have a name on the front of the house. The workshop is located at the very bottom of the village, inside (or next to…) the Aquileo Parra Museum, which is easier to find!
The salto del mico and the viewpoints
What to do in BARICHARA
As we explained in our introduction, Barichara offers numerous viewpoints over the village and surrounding countryside. We’ve taken advantage of them to tell you all about it!
Views of the village
We made our way up the narrow streets of Barichara to the Santa Barbara church to admire the most beautiful views of the village.
Each street offers its own perspective, but the most emblematic is certainly Calle 5: it offers a bird’s-eye view of the street, with its huge cobblestones, tile-roofed houses and cathedral in the background… the Andes mountains complete the picture: a feast for the eyes.
If you walk along Calle 1 or “Calle del mirador”, you’ll see all the streets leading down into Barichara, but you’ll also see views of the Cañon du rio Suarez on the other side.
View of the rio Suarez cañon
Continuing along Calle 1 in search of the start of the famous “Camino Real”, there are two viewpoints over the cañon. While the canyon can be seen all along the street, there are two places where you can stop and have a drink while admiring the scenery.
It’s on this Calle 1 that we find the start of the “Camino Real” to Guane, which descends to the village of Guane. We won’t have time to do the hike this time, but it’s clearly one of the highlights of a visit to Barichara. We’ll tell you all about it below.
Salto del Mico
This was one of the spots we’d spotted and absolutely wanted to discover. After a day spent exploring the village, we headed before daybreak for the Salto del Mico, another viewpoint on the Rio Suarez Cañon, but what a viewpoint!
You may already have seen images on social networks of this spectacular viewpoint. The “game” for those who are not afraid of heights is to get up on the rocky spur suspended above the void.
Samuel tried his hand at it, not without a few drops of sweat on his forehead. While the rocky platform is imposing and reassuring, once you get close to the void, it ‘s vertiginous.
Please note, however, that no special security is installed on the site, so you are entirely responsible for your own safety. We therefore advise you to remain vigilant and take every precaution before venturing to the edge of the cliff.
All the same, apart from this little exercise in tightrope walking, the view over the canyon is truly impressive. Come and admire the sunset (or sunrise for early risers), which adds an even more enchanting atmosphere to the landscape. That said, a heat haze may appear, and some may prefer to go in the middle of the day with a totally unobstructed view of the mountains.
The Salto del Mico is located just outside the village of Barichara on the road to Guane, and is very easy to get to on foot. If you’re lazy, you can take a mototaxi to get there!
Caminos reales
What to do in BARICHARA
We regretted not being able to stay longer in Barichara. Our program didn’t allow us to do everything we would have liked. We arrived one evening and had all day the following day, but we really wanted to take the time to discover the village.
We stayed the morning of the following day to go to the “Taller Centro die”, but this was totally insufficient. You need to spend at least 2 full days and 3 nights to enjoy the village..
Another solution is to choose Barichara as a base for discovering the surrounding area and the beauty of Santander, in particular the famous Caminos Reales!
Camino Real de Guane
If we use the plural, it’s because there isn’t just one “Camino Real” around Barichara. As a reminder, the “royal roads” are paths which, despite their Spanish colonial name, existed for the most part long before the arrival of the colonists and were the main communication routes of pre-Columbian civilizations.
From Barichara, the best-known “camino real” is of course the one leading to the village of Guane. This is the shortest and “easiest” route, but you’ll need to leave as early as possible in the morning toavoid the heat. Because there’s no shade on the horizon!
It’s worth the effort, though, as at the end of the camino you’ll find the ancient village of Guane, a kind of mini Barichara, based on the same architecture, but with an extra soul. Perhaps that of the indigenous Guane people who founded this settlement, which still retains its name today.
Barichara – Guane
- Difficulty: medium
- Distance: 5 km (one way)
- Duration: approx. 2h30 (one way)
- Difference in altitude: 1340 > 1100 m
Once there, it’s easy to catch a bus back to Barichara in 20 minutes, without having to make the return journey.
Other Caminos
Barichara – Cabrera
- Difficulty: medium
- Distance: 8.5 km
- Duration: approx. 3h30
- Difference in altitude: 1340 > 830 m
- Return bus : Cabrera >San Gil in 50 minutes / San Gil > Barichara in 1h
Barichara – Villanueva
Return bus : Villanueva > Barichara in 30 minutes.
Difficulty: medium
Distance: 8 km (one way)
Duration: approx. 3h30 (one way)
Difference in altitude: 1340 > 1680 m
Camino Real to Chicamocha Canyon
For the more adventurous, it’s possible to continue along the Camino Real from Villanueva down into the heart of the Chicamocha Canyon to the village of Jordan! It’s even possible to go back up to Los Santos and cross to the other side of the Canyon, or even reach the Amusement Park by taking the famous chairlift over the Canyon… In short, it’s a unique experience that’s well worth your while.
You’ll need to be well-prepared, as the distances are relatively long, and you’ll need to bring food and, above all, plenty of water, as you’ll be walking completely in the open in an arid environment.
And don’t forget to set off as early as possible, so as not to be caught unawares and arrive at your destination before nightfall. On the first day, you’ll be walking almost exclusively downhill, but there’s still a long way to go. On the second day, it’s all uphill.
Villanueva – Jordan
- Difficulty: High
- Distance: 15 km (one way)
- Duration: approx. 7h30 (one way)
- Difference in altitude: 1880 > 450 m
- Return : No bus back to San Gil, but possible to return by private cab. Otherwise, you might as well continue to Los Santos (by cab or on foot)
The village of Jordan is tiny and almost ghostly. There are few options for travellers, but there’s a hostel where you can sleep and a restaurant where you can eat… everything you need! Enough to recharge your batteries and head back to San Gil the next day, or continue on to Los Santos to finish the Chicamocha Canyon crossing.
Jordan – Los Santos
- Difficulty: High
- Distance: 6.5 km (one-way)
- Duration: approx. 6h30 (one way)
- Difference in altitude: 450 > 1350 m
- Return : Take a cab and ask to be taken to the teleferico entrance!
After descending to the bottom, this is your chance to cross the Chicamocha Canyon by chairlift! And cut off the return route in the process. Once you’re in the middle of the canyon’s “amusement park”, head for the main road to catch a bus back to San Gil. Or, if you’ve got all your stuff, drive on to Bucaramanga.
Hormigas culonas and Santander specialties
VISIT BARICHARA
How can you talk about Barichara, and Santander in general, without mentioning the famous “hormigas culonas“? For the few who haven’t heard of them yet, “hormigas culonas” are large flying ants traditionally eaten in the region.
First of all, you need to know that this tradition originated with the indigenous Guanes who inhabited the region.
As soon as we arrived in Barichara, we met Orlando, a shopkeeper in the upper part of the village and a specialist in culonas hormigas. On our to-do list was the obligatory “taste of ants“! It was planned, it was fixed, we did it. But we hadn’t planned to learn so much about all the secrets behind its manufacture! In response to our questions, Orlando warmly invited us into his home to explain the entire manufacturing process.
Good to know
On the hunt for big butts
Orlando hunts his own ants, and just like mushrooms, there are ant nooks and crannies for everyone to treasure. Note that not all big-ass ants can be eaten, but only certain varieties, which only come out during the day between April and May, so don’t miss out!
Big-ass ants” are flying ants, so there’s a whole technique to picking them by hand. You have to wait for it to rain so that the holes in the anthills fill up with water, then wait for the sun to come out so that the ants can come out and dry themselves in the sun, and that’s when the hunter comes in! But the guards are there to protect them, and their mandibles are apparently fierce enough to bite the unfortunate ant to the bone… the hunt for the big-assed ant is no picnic!
Once harvested, the ants are cooked for several hours in salt, the wings and legs are removed, they are toasted with butter and this is how they are eaten. Ants are reputed to have many nutritional properties.
We tested it for you!
After so much interesting practical information, it’s time to taste the ants! To give you an idea, an ant is about the size of 2 peanuts stuck together. They’re pretty big. Once in the mouth, they crunch!
It’s mainly crunchy, as you crunch the shell. You get bits of shell in your mouth and a taste of… some say peanut… others butter… in any case, it’s not disgusting at all.
That said, once you’ve tried them, you really have to like the taste to go back for more. We bought a box for Angélica’s father, who loves it! But in the end, it’s the psychological aspect of the whole affair that puts us off more than anything else.
Go on, tell us in the comments if you liked the big-ass ants!
Guided tour of Barichara
Visit Barichara with a local guide
Responsible tourism
Laura’s agency offers all the tours you could think about in Barichara and all the Santander region. Laura honors the artisans of Barichara’s area and propose some beautiful cultural experiences that show a different face of the village and help to maintain its ancestral know-how.
Where to stay in Barichara
Hotel
Casa Canela
A lovely hotel in a great location near Barichara’s main square. Guests appreciate the service, cleanliness and welcome. Their swimming pool is undoubtedly a plus!
Finca
Artepolis
For those looking for peace and quiet, just outside the village of Barichara but relatively close to the center. Artepolis offers a really pretty setting at a very affordable price!
Hotel
Oniri House
Hotel Casa Oniri is where we stayed during our visit to Barichara. It’s a superb boutique hotel located in the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from Barichara’s main square. The little extra: a rooftop with a view of the cathedral!
How to get to Barichara
Barichara is located 23 km from San Gil in the Santander department.
From San Gil
BUS | SAN GIL <> BARICHARA (45 min)
- Timetable: Every 30 min from 6 a.m. to 8:15 p.m
- Price: approx. $7.000 COP
From Bucaramanga
BUS | DIRECT BUCARAMANGA <> BARICHARA (3h30)
- Price : around $35.500 COP
- Timetable: Mon – Fri at 4.45 am / Sat at 9.15 am / Sun at 7 pm – Return: Mon – Fri at 5 am / Sun at 3 pm
- Company : Cotrasangil
Please note that there seems to be only one departure per day for direct buses from Buacaramanga to Barichara, so you’ll have to get up early on weekdays!
BUS | BUCARAMANGA <> SAN GIL (3h)
- Price: between $32.000 COP and $40.000 COP
- Timetable: every hour from 00:30 to 23:30
- Companies: Copetran, Cotrasangil, Cotrasaravita, Trasander…
From Bogotá
From Bogotá, first go to San Gil, then take a bus to Barichara.
BUS | BOGOTA <> SAN GIL (7h)
- Price: between $60.000 COP and $70.000 COP
- Timetable: approximately every hour from 00:30 to 23:30
- Companies: Copetran, Berlinas del fonce, Expreso Brasilia, Omega
Where to eat in Barichara
Elvia
Worthy of a Michelin-starred restaurant, it’s rare to be able to taste gourmet Colombian cuisine, so don’t miss out on this experience! A must in Barichara.
- Price: approx. $50.000 COP per course / $120.000 COP for an 8-course tasting menu
- Address: Carrera 10 #5-99
- Tel: 57 21 990 3975
Shambala
Ceviches, Woks: we went there when we were there, fresh, good and very hearty!
- Price: between $15.000 COP and $35.000v on average
- Address: Carrera 7 #6-20
- Tel: 57 302 4 649 207
Las Cruces
Colombian: we tried it out, as it’s the restaurant of the Barichara School of Arts and Crafts, in a superb colonial house
- Price: between $25.000 COP and $55.000 COP
- Address: Carrera 5 #4-26
- Tel: 57 7 726 7577
Gringo Mike
Hamburgers: recommended by Angélica’s uncle, this is a reference! Some even say it’s the best burger in Colombia..
- Price: between $10.000 COP and $30.000 COP on average
- Address: Carrera 6 # 6-58
- Tel: 57 7 726 7613
7 Tigres
Italian: recommended by our friend Caroline, this is a very good Italian place if you feel like a change!
- Price: around $20.000 COP on average
- Address: Calle 6 #10-24
- Tel: 57 312 521 9962
