There are no roads to the Pacific coast of Choco. On the tarama of Medellín’s regional airport, the engines of the small propeller plane start up, whirring, vibrating the cabin, and take-off in the heart of Medellín. We’re totally surrounded by mountains, turning 180° as we gain altitude, and it’s all good fun!
It’s quite funny to be flying at such a low altitude, you can see the landscapes and peaks around Medellín, then you get caught up in the clouds above the rainforest, before you catch a glimpse of light, a bit of sunshine, you emerge from the clouds and the Pacific coast reveals itself before your eyes.
We’re certain that the landscapes we see as we make our way down to Bahia Solano are full of treasures just waiting to be discovered, and the chills run down our spines… we’ve been looking forward to this trip for so long…
We didn’t know yet that we would fall in love with this region and that it would be others trips throught Nuqui region.
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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Discover the Pacific coast
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
When the plane’s doors open, it’s the expected thermal shock. After the obligatory military search, we queue up to sign the register and pay the new tourist tax intended to help local development.
We meet up with our contact who will take us by motocarro (tuk-tuk) to the small village of El Valle, some 45 minutes from Bahia Solano. The route starts out on a chaotic track, with the rains creating water holes that are difficult to cross, but the TukTuk are all terrain!
Halfway along, without warning, the road turns into pleasant asphalt, an ubiquitous sign of local politics, and in general of the corruption that reigns in Colombian politics.
Arriving in El Valle, we head for El Almejal beach, where our TukTuk driver drops us off at our first pied-à-terre of the week, at El Nativo, which we’ll tell you more about below in the “where to stay in El Valle” section.
Once we’ve settled in, we take a seat in the outdoor restaurant run by the family of El Nativo (the nickname of the family patriarch). The covered terrace overlooks a small garden that opens directly onto the beach.
Angélica’s dad arrives on the next plane from Satena, and we wait for him to explore the surrounding area. The reunion continues over a beer, and the place is just great for chatting and enjoying the sea breeze.
With the heat helping, we set off for our first swim in the Pacific! Here, as elsewhere in Colombia, the water is particularly warm and delicious.
The waves are a little reminiscent of home and our Gironde coast, so it’s a great opportunity to have some fun! In fact, it’s possible to take surfing lessons here.
While swimming, we meet Juanito, surely one of the youngest fishermen in El Valle! At 8 years old, he’s the youngest of 9 siblings. He has two brothers who are also fishermen. He’s so proud to show us his catch of the day that he agrees to pose for the photo.
Once all his brothers’ and sisters’ names and ages have been listed, Juanito and his T-shirt with holes in it run back home. We’ll see him again and again over the next few days, always with a big hello and always with that big smile on his handsome face.
The village of El Valle
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
We head off to the village to pick up some water cans to stock up so we don’t have to drink tap water. We decide to take every precaution, as Angélica’s stay in Medellín has got off to a flying start.
To get there, we pass along the sublime black sand beach lined with coconut palms that runs right up to the village entrance. We walk along taking in the scenery, noting the plastic garbage washed up by the sea, unaware that this will be one of the leitmotifs of our trip.
Arriving at the mouth of the river, we join the path leading to the village. We don’t yet know that we’ll be spending the night there on our way back from Utria NPN.
The village of El Valle, about a 20-minute walk from Playa El Almejal, has the simplicity of Colombia’s poorest villages.
Dirt streets, local businesses in their prime, the atmosphere is quiet and mixed: here live or survive mainly Afrodescendant and indigenous Embera communities.
We witness scenes of everyday life: meat being cut up on the sidewalk, natives coming to do their shopping by pirogue, students returning from Bahia Solano, children fishing in the lagoon.
Playa El almejal
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
Back from the village, with our water on our shoulders, we continue to enjoy the peace and quiet: letting time flow on the Pacific coast… what could be better? Besides, it’s been 2 years since Angélica last saw her father, so the mood is one of smiles and reunion.
As the sun goes down, we return to enjoy the beautiful light and discover our first ballet of local fishermen on Playa El Almejal.
Here, fishing is used first and foremost to feed the family, and secondly to support it if possible. Traditional fishing is done with a reel from the edge of the beach. A simple line in the hand and you cast the line, your body half immersed in the waves.
The system is basic, but highly effective in waters as rich in fish as those of Colombia’s Pacific coast! Professional fishermen, on the other hand, are in their lancha a little further offshore, fishing with nets.
The El Nativo family is very welcoming and friendly, the atmosphere is relaxed, no stress here. As with all accommodation in El Valle, all the usual local activities can be organized. Just ask!
As El Valle is one of Colombia’s whale-watching destinations, we obviously came for that. It was the first thing we discussed with Kike, El Nativo’s son, who welcomes tourists and guides the tours. An appointment was made for the following day, with whale-watching, followed by lunch and a visit to the El Tigre waterfall.
Despite the simplicity with which the family lives on their plot of land in El Valle, El Nativo happens to own the Cascada El Tigre, which isone of the most beautiful in the area, as we’ll find out… The idea for him is to refurbish a hut there so as to be able to welcome tourists and offer them hammock accommodation.
But enough of long speeches, what awaits us the next day will be one of the most beautiful days of our trip!
See whales and die
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
With full bellies, we set off in the morning on the El Nativo lancha to go whale-watching. At this time of year, they’re scattered all over Colombia’s Pacific coast, from single mothers with their newborn calves to groups of rutting males and mating females.
The calm waters off the Pacific coast are not only where humpback whales reproduce, but also where they give birth to their calves.
Just a few minutes after boarding, you can spot the plumes of humpback whale blowing in the distance !
Yes, let’s make no mistake, it’s not water that the whales blow out of the hole above their heads, but hot air which, on contact with the air, forms condensation and the well-known plume. And the hole through which this plume emerges is, quite simply, their nose. Well, thanks Jamy!
Luck is with us. We’ll be spending the next few momentswith a group of 5 humpbackwhales . There they are, beside us, swimming peacefully out to sea, their majesty beyond compare.
We feel tiny in our little boat. We’re alone with them, and the emotion is at its peak – we’ve waited so long for this moment, our hearts are beating a thousand miles an hour, our brains don’t know whether to laugh, cry, scream, take photos, film, enjoy the moment..
There areno words in these moments, the vocabulary shrinks considerably, just “OHLALAAAA” “C’EST PAS POSSIBLE!”, “WOW”, “NON, MAIS C’EST PAS POSSIBLE!”, and then RHOLALALALA!”.
We’re going to follow the whales for a few minutes, which will seem like hours, in turn heads, tails, backs, breaths and their voice… their song!
Having the chance tohear the whales sing is something that personally touched me for life. With the motor muted, we could clearly hear the plaintive, unmistakable song of the humpback whales.
Once again, we’re faced with the inadequacy of words to describe the emotion we feel in front of these magical beings.
One of them even gives us the gift ofa leap that Jubarte whales are famous for. Every photographer dreams of capturing this moment. I was the first. But in this case, I never thought I’d get this close to the whales, so I took a big zoom lens for the occasion and got way too close for the shot of a lifetime… missed!
Leave them to their birth… Leave them to their courtship, their frolics… Let them swim out to sea, bound for new welcoming waters somewhere on the Colombian coast or elsewhere..
Perhaps they’ll set off again on their journey around the world, between the cold seas of the poles and the warm seas of the tropics, for thousands of kilometers until they return here, as they do every year, for the incredible phenomenon of whale migration in Colombia.
As orphans in search of new encounters, we see the plumes calling us again, but we won’t be seeing our whale friends again today. No matter, the spectacle we’ve just witnessed was so unique that the day can end, the week, even the trip!
With asmile on our faces, we head off to our next stop and make new discoveries.
The next day we’ll head for Utria National Nature Park, an hour’s lancha ride from El Valle. Here we’ll enjoy some superb experiences, which we’ll tell you about in our post. In particular, we’ll be treated to the most marvellous of shows, simply sitting on the rocks at Playa Blanca, a fabulous ballet for almost an hour between a mother and her calf.
Playa El Tigre, paradise
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
The lancha picks up speed and a few dozen minutes later we approach a small cove of clear sand where a waterfall emerges from a lush jungle. A surreal vision: welcome to the Cascada del Tigre !
While the wood-fired meal is being prepared, we set off with Kike to explore the beach. We leave the creek and head for a larger adjacent beach, at the end of which we discover a huge cave filled with bats. The beach is filled with thousands of hermit crabs of all shapes and sizes, and lightning-fast red crabs.
A feeling of virginity emanates from this place and yet… here as elsewhere, plastic pollution is present: bottles, cans, caps, glasses, straws, flip-flops, bags, everything goes… jaws clench, incomprehension is always the same: here in Colombia or elsewhere in the world, when are we going to stop using these plastics? When will we stop behaving like pigs?
On the way back, Kike takes us to a fa-bu-le place: another waterfall that flows onto the beach and forms a basin where we can swim. A waterfall that flows onto the beach… when you put it like that, I don’t know if you can really see it, but the photos will help.
A waterfall on the beach, with a natural bathtub from which, of course, you can enjoy the view of the Pacific Ocean… seriously… in a moment like that, your heart rate goes up to 10.000 and you think: no, it’s not possible! Am I dreaming? Where the hell am I? “Una locura” as they say, something like a raving lunatic.
Back at the hut, we enjoy a well-deserved grilled fish! Then it’s time to head deep into the jungle.
From the main waterfall, we follow the river up the mountainside, where the vegetation is as wild as ever in this wild region of Choco, the fresh water is cool and there’s one swim after another. We could go all the way up to the top of the mountain, but we’re getting tired and decide to head back down.
It’s time to start letting the day rest. Slowly, let all these emotions rest. Slowly realize how lucky we are. Slowly become aware of the experience we’ve had. Shaking our heads to make sure we haven’t been dreaming. Looking at ourselves, smiling. Settle on the beach to contemplate the last light of day and give thanks for life, the earth, nature and the need to protect it.
Get in touch with a local guide
Best local guide in El Valle (Bahia Solano)
Responsible tourism
Our partner is a native guide from the village of El Valle.and takes pride in working with the local community to showcase the wonders of its region.
Where to stay in El Valle
El Valle
Eco Lodge
El Almejal
El Almejal is one of the best hotels in El Valle. Located on the beach of the same name, it is one of the pioneering hotels in the spirit of eco-responsible hotels in Colombia.
El Valle
Hostal
The Pelican House Hostel
The Pelican House Hostal is one of the best accommodation options in El Valle and has the great merit of partnering with the Madre Agua team in Bahia Solano, who do great work with the whales.
El Valle
Posada
Posada El nativo
A posada where we spent two nights. Basic comfort but nice location by the beach on the way to playa El Almejal. Possibility of eating on site.
El Valle
Hotel
El Morro B&B
A hotel we wanted to try out but which was fully booked when we came, a hut on the tip of El Almejal beach, with a splendid view directly over the Pacific Ocean and its fabulous sunsets!
Full board: price includes 3 meals a day
El Valle
Posada
Mama Orbe Eco Farm
From simple cabins on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, a home with Mama Orbe’s family and a unique sea turtle protection project in El Valle, or how to combine business with pleasure. If Mama Orbe is a little far from the village, it’s a real opportunity to disconnect and share with the family, and do the activities with them. Highly recommended!
How to get to El Valle
To get to Bahia Solano and El Valle, there are no roads! The easiest way is to fly into Bahia Solano, then take a motocarro (tuktuk) from Bahia Solano airport to your accommodation in El Valle.
From Medellín
PLANE | Medellín <> Bahia Solano
- Duration: 1 hour
- Fare: between $400.000 and $600.000 COP return depending on season
- Companies: Clicair, Satena, Moon Flights
- Tourist tax payable at Bahia Solano airport: $47.500 COP
ONLINE PAYMENTS ON COLOMBIAN WEBSITES
Refusals to pay often occur when we try to pay online. For example, this has happened to us several times on the San German Express site, the Satena site and the Avianca site. We solved the problem by using our VPN and locating it in Colombia. This enabled us to bypass local restrictions and the payment was accepted.
Motocarro from Bahia Solano to El Valle
Once you arrive at Bahia Solano airport, you’ll see a large number of motocarros (tuktuk) at the exit, which can take you as far as the village of El Valle
- Duration: 1 hour
- Price: $50.000 COP (same price for 1 to 3 people)
From Nuqui
LANCHA | Nuqui <> El Valle
- Duration: 2h00
- Price: $150.000 COP
- Departures: Monday, Wednesday, Friday (call one day before to confirm departure time)
- Contact: Zape (+57) 311 3372839 / (+57) 350 287 5692
From Buenaventura
We realize that some of you are looking for this option. For those who like cargo ships and want to play the adventurer, here’s the information we’ve gathered.
LANCHA | Buenaventura <> El Valle
- Duration: 6h – 10h
- Fare: $270.000 COP
- Departure from the “Muelle Turistico” : depending on climate conditions, the journey can be physically demanding (if the sea is rough, the lancha is hard-hitting and minimum 6 hours long!)
- Contact: Transportes Sin Frontera (+57) 320 708 0867
CARGO | Buenaventura <> Bahia Solano
- Duration: 24h – 30h
- Fare: one berth in very hot “cabin” + meals for $200.000 COP (you should prefer to sleep outside on an hammock)
- Departure are not fixed, it depends on lot’s of climate conditions, so you’ll need to contact and check
- Contacts : Óscar Restrepo (+57) 311 3406716
