Filandia in Colombia (not “Finlandia” in Scandinavia!) is a pretty village located halfway between Pereira and Armenia, in the department of Quindio, in the heart of the coffee region.
We spent a few days there to (finally) discover this pretty village, close to Salento and the no less famous Cocora Valley.
It was February, supposedly one of the driest months in Colombia, and yet the rain chased us every day in this coffee-growing region, where it’s a regular feature in every season!
We didn’t explore all the village has to offer, as we were there for personal reasons and not 100% focused on sightseeing. We had rented a car at Pereira airport to get around the area and visit a few houses that caught our eye.
But our few days there made us want to go back! In this post, we tell you about our experience and give you some ideas of what to do in Filandia.
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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General information Filandia
- Founded: 1878
- Population: 13412
- People: Filandeños
- When to go: all year round
- Temperatures: 22° C average
- Climate: Temperate and humid
- Altitude: 2000 m avg.
- Region: Andes
- County: Quindio
- Distances: 30km from Armenia, 30km from Pereira, 20km from Salento
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Why visit Filandia in Colombia
Beautiful village in the coffee region
The first thing you come to in Filandia is to feel the magic of the coffee region! And it’s true that the area between Pereira and Armenia is certainly the most accessible for discovering this “cafetero cultural landscape” listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Of course, we visit Filandia to admire its colorful doors and balconies, but also to discover the local crafts, sit on the terrace of a café to enjoy the atmosphere, and discover the coffee culture and rural atmosphere of Colombia.
We were there for 3 days for everything other than tourism, so we didn’t do all the activities you can enjoy during a stay in Filandia. For example, we didn’t have time to visit the Barbas Bremen reserve, one of the main natural attractions around the village…
But we can say that we really enjoyed discovering this pretty village, its landscapes, and the preservation of certain local traditions, in particular the craft of basketry! As you know, we couldn’t resist finding out more about this Filandia specialty, and we’ll tell you all about it below.
As we said in the introduction, we rented a car in Pereira and we really recommend this mode of transport to discover the various villages in the region(Salento, Filandia, Pijao, Thermes de Santa Rosa de Cabal, etc.)
Best things to do in Filandia
Visiting Filandia
Here we’ll tell you about the experiences we had in Filandia, but also about the other options we didn’t have time to explore.
Strolling through Filandia’s colorful alleyways
Of course, this is what we love most about all these villages in the coffee region: the explosion of color in their doors, windows and balconies! It’s truly typical of the architecture of all the villages in the region, and we can’t get enough of it.
So stroll along the streets, pause in front of the beautiful shop windows, walk up and down the main street…
A basket-weaving workshop
We’ll tell you more about it below, as it was the highlight of our visit to Filandia, but basketry is one of the village’s proudest achievements. Close to the main square, you’ll find the “Centro de interpretacion del Bejuco al canasto”, a sort of small basketry museum and a workshop/school, but it’s along the road leading up to the mirador at the edge of the village that you’ll find the greatest number of workshops and craftsmen. Some of them offer workshops where you can learn weaving techniques and make a small souvenir. But you’ll need to make an appointment with them at least 1 day in advance.
Climb to the Filandia viewpoint
On the outskirts of the village, you’ll find the village watchtower, offering a lovely view over the rolling landscape. You have to pay to get in, and the view isn’t particularly impressive, but it’s an interesting viewpoint from which to see the layout of the village and the way the landscape is sculpted by agricultural crops.
Visit a coffee finca
Of course, when you think of the coffee region, you think of ? Coffee finca! We recommend you visit a traditional finca to discover the entire coffee production process. The advantage is that the experience is perhaps a little more authentic than on the Salento side, where there are so many people that the tours today are very formatted. We haven’t been on one, so we can’t particularly recommend it, but you’re sure to find a nice finca where you can discover the coffee culture.
Visit the Barbas Bremen nature reserve
This is surely the attraction that locals are most proud of. The Barbas Bremen nature reserve is accessible via guided tours departing from the village’s main square. Yes, it’s compulsory to be accompanied by a guide to walk around the reserve. The highlight: (perhaps) the chance to see the howler monkeys!
So, as you can see, visiting Filandia isn’t just about strolling through the village’s colorful streets– there’s plenty to do!
Basketry in Filandia
Discover local crafts
We set ourselves a mission when we came to Filandia: to discover the basketry craft for which the village is famous!
To begin with, we took the road out of the village towards Quimbaya. Near the viewpoint, there are a whole series of workshops making objects from Bejuco, the natural fibre found in the surrounding rainforest and used for local basketry.
The objects produced are each more beautiful than the last! We fall in love with the lamps and other decorative objects, but hold back… impossible to take home. So we promise ourselves we’ll come back the day we settle in Colombia, and continue our discovery.
In each workshop, we can chat with the passionate craftsmen. For some, it’s an old family tradition and they’ve been doing this job since they were very young, for others it’s a passion that developed late in life… no rules!
While we’re at it, we try to find out about a discovery workshop, but we’d have had to make arrangements a little in advance and give advance notice… Tanpis for us!
The next day we head for the“Centro de interpretacion del Bejuco“, just a few steps from Filandia’s main square. Here you can learn all about the craft of basketry and its place in village life.
There’s a small museum retracing the ancestral uses of basketry, particularly in coffee cultivation, and even a small garden where you can observe the plants from which the fibers come!
There’s also a store where you can buy various items. Behind the store is the workshop, which also serves as a school for local youngsters wishing to learn about this traditional craft.
The center offers workshops, and as we were unable to attend one in the workshops just outside the village, we decided to take part! It’s also a way of supporting their efforts to preserve this know-how. One of the workshop’s young apprentices takes us in hand to teach us how to make a small basket with our own little hands.
It’s a really nice exchange, and we think it’s great that young people are taking an interest in this traditional know-how that’s tending to be lost! While chatting and drinking a little coffee, we learn the rudiments of basketry and leave proud with our creations!
at the same time, we watch the skilled hands of the craftswomen at work, occasionally chatting with them and admiring their work. We also chat with the young apprentices, and it’s great to see how they take pleasure and pride in keeping this art alive.
We really enjoyed it, and we can’t recommend you enough!
Good to know
Filandia, a village off the beaten track?
While this may have been the case just a few years ago, Filandia can no longer really be described as a village off the beaten track. Today, Filandia is one of those villages that are beginning to make a name for themselves as an alternative to Salento, Colombia’s most visited village.
So much so, in fact, that on certain weekends of the year, particularly around the festive season, the Colombian vacations and Semana Santa, the number of visitors (especially locals) is such that the village can barely cope with the crowds.
But outside these periods, Filandia remains a good alternative to Salento, offering other possibilities for discovery while remaining close to the Cocora Valley.
Day tour in Filandia and Barbas Bremen
Recommended local agency
Responsible tourism
Our partner is the first trekking operator in Colombia to have been awarded the Tourcert certificate and is working to develop a responsible tourism policy:
- Joint work with National Park authorities
- Guides certified in high mountain first aid
- Employment of local people with fair wages
- Contributing to the local economy with the aim of improving working conditions
- Commitment to local communities (school tool collection programs)
- Application of “Leave no trace” principles
Where to stay in Filandia
Filandia
Finca
Casa Laureles
We chose to stay in this beautiful cabin in Filandia and can’t recommend it highly enough. Gloria is a great host! You’ll find yourself in a peaceful setting, just 15 minutes from Filandia’s main square.
Filandia
Hostal
Bidea Backpackers Hostel
We chose to stay in this beautiful cabin in Filandia and can’t recommend it highly enough. Gloria is a great host! You’ll find yourself in a peaceful setting, just 15 minutes from Filandia’s main square.
Filandia
Finca
La puesta del sol Hotel
A good option for combining the beauty of the Filandia landscape with proximity to the village center.
How to get to Filandia
From Salento
Jeep Willys operate between Salento and Filandia, with regular departures. We strongly advise you to reserve your place in advance and, once you’ve arrived in Filandia, to book the return trip directly if you don’t intend to stay overnight.
- Duration: 30 min
- Timetable: Every hour (last at 7 p.m.)
- Fares: around $8.000 COP
If you run out of seats in the public Willys, it’s possible to take a private Willy, but it’s (much) more expensive.
By bus from Pereira
- Duration: 1 hour
- Timetable: leaves every hour or so from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m
- Fares: around $6.000 COP
- Companies: Expreso Alcala
By bus from Armenia
- Duration: 1 hour
- Timetable: several departures per hour from 4am to 11pm
- Fares: around $6.000 COP
- Companies: Cootrancien, Cootracir, Nuevo Rápido Quindio, Expreso Cafetero
Where to eat in Filandia
Fonda Asael
One of the oldest bars in the village, authentic enough to enjoy a drink and listen to old records.
Helena adentro
THE most famous restaurant in Filandia and therefore the most touristy. But frankly, we’re all for it. The place is great, the view is spectacular and the food is really good!
Mocafé
If you’re looking for a taste of local specialty coffee, we recommend a stop at the little Mocafé
Tuk Tuk
If you’re in the mood for something a little different, this is the place for you. Asian cuisine done right! The place is very nice, with a beautiful view of the landscape.
Bakuru
For a taste of Pacific cuisine in the heart of the coffee region! But this is perhaps the best restaurant in the village.
