The pretty, colorful village of Guatape and the no less famous Piedra del Peñol are two classic visits around Medellín. For some travellers, they’re even two of the great classics of a trip to Colombia.
I was lucky enough to discover Guatape a long time ago on a beautiful sunny day. We headed for the Medellín bus terminal to catch a buseta heading due west towards Guatape.
A pleasant ride through the countryside, the mountains, all that green, and the chatter that goes on in the bus… this little old man who asks us where we’re from and thanks us for coming to Colombia, for coming to see them, and asks us to tell everyone that they’re welcome in Colombia, that they should come, that they’ll be well received… so adorable this little old man (a little tear in the corner of his eye).
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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La piedra del Peñol
Or Peñon de Guatape
We arrived in Guatapé and headed straight for the Piedra del Peñol to discover this natural anomaly, a huge, rounded rock standing in the middle of a completely surreal landscape, this turquoise lake cut out with a paintbrush… today the image is well-known, but at the time we didn’t really know what to expect!
What’s also striking is that we feel we’re in a very touristy place. Because even though we’re in the middle of nothing, so to speak, everything is designed to cater for tourists: tourist cars, tourist stores, tourist restaurants, etc.
From the top of the Peñon
Let’s talk about what we came here for: the view! From up there, with the wind blowing like an ox, the view is spectacular, over the surrounding region, the mountains, but above all over this incredible artificial lake, with its enchanting colors and shape, as if drawn in pencil.
This lake is the result of the construction of a dam on the Rio Nare, and represents the 3rd largest reservoir in the whole of Colombia.
In the 1970s, the dam flooded the plain and displaced over 4.000 people, a tragedy for many that changed local life forever.
Lake Peñol is immense and creates a supernatural landscape of small green islands. Boat trips are also available.
Good to know
How many steps
740 steps according to english Wikipedia, or 659 according to Spanish Wikipedia, or 702 according to Viajandox, or 600 according to the Huffington Post, or 650 according to Desintoinfinito, or 700 according to Viajestic, or 745 according to Miviaje.com..
We haven’t counted, but to put an end to the debate we’ll say that there are around 650 steps to reach the summit and around 740 steps to reach the platform built at the top for a 360° view of the region and the lake.
The origin of the Piedra del Peñol
Theories about the origin of the Peñon de Guatape (its second name) are as far-fetched as the next, and while it is known to date back some 70 million years, it is said to have been formed by a meteorite or the fruit of an extinct volcano… T
In any case, it was a sacred place for the Tahami natives, like a divinity, and there are many legends surrounding it, such as that of the fault in which the staircase was built, which tells that the devil wanted to take the stone away and that it was his mark that he left when he tried unsuccessfully.
Good to know
A letter, a story
You might ask, what’s that inscription painted in white on that gigantic stone?
Well, it turns out to be a completely idiotic attempt by the mayor of Guatapéto appropriate the stone..
The stone is more or less on the border between the municipalities of Guatapé and El Peñol (hence the two names). So, in the 80s, the mayor of Guatapé had the good idea of painting the name of his village on the stone, just to say “THIS IS MIIIIINE!!!!”
He begins his work and paints us a beautiful letter G, the first letter of Guatapé… and patatra! Right in the middle of the letter U, the inhabitants of the village of El Peñol came to protest and cut off what was about to be the work of a lifetime!
The budding graffiti artist had to abandon his project, and here we are with a letter and a half lying there like a huge pigeon dropping… not good!
Village of Guatape
ONE OF COLOMBIA’S MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES
Returning to the village, we played the perfect tourist and climbed into one of those 4 Ls cut out in fluorescent colors.
Ours was a sublime metallic purple, with a young driver of at least… 14… enjoying the ride to the village of Guatapé.
Great fun! Sometimes, you just have to let yourself go as a basic tourist, and this is obviously a way for this young man to bring home some cash, let’s not forget..
The colorful streets of Guatapé.
After a short lunch break, it’s off for a stroll throughone of Colombia’s most colorful villages. On the bottom of each house, you’ll find the famous Zocalos.
Zocalos are decorations that tell the story of the village, or simply represent landscapes, everyday objects, simple geometric figures or the passions of the house owner.
Good to know
The history of Guatape’s Zocalas
The story goes that Guatapé became what it is today thanks to a local artist, José Maria Parra, who in the 1920s started painting the inside of his house for Easter, and then felt the urge to decorate the front of his house.
The neighbors found it so beautiful that they asked him to come and paint their house too. In those days, only a few houses were decorated.
In the 1970s, in response to the construction of the dam and the flooding of part of the village, it was decided to save the zocalos that were about to be destroyed by the waters and relocate them elsewhere in the village.
It was then that the famous “Calle del recuerdo” was born and became the village’s emblem!
Finally, in the 2000s, on the occasion of the village’s bicentenary, the mayor decided to ask all residents to decorate their homes with a zocalo. Since then, Guatapé has become the tourist attraction it is today.
To learn all about the Zolacos in Spanish, here’s the bible “Guatape Tierra de Zocalos” by Clara Velasquez. I also recommend reading the post by a frenchwoman living in Guatape, who talks about the Zocalos in detail.
We stroll through the little village under a blazing sun. But as we hadn’t planned to stay overnight, time was running out to get back.
Guatapé is not lacking in color and charm, but I have to admit, when you come from less touristy areas, the shock can be a bit brutal. It’s a bit like arriving in Salento.
Maybe what we missed that day was being accompanied by a guide, so we could talk about the history of the village and its little secrets. To be able to meet the locals and feel a little closer to local life. Because behind every tourist destination, there are people and stories to discover!
Get in touch with a local guide
Day trip to Guatape
Responsible tourism
Our local partner in Medellin are comitted to make a difference in Colombia through social and ethically responsible tourism by converting tourism into a sustainable income for local people and by contributing to the protection of Colombia’s environmental and cultural diversity.
Where to stay in Guatape
Guatape
Eco Lodge
Bacoa Hostal
Here’s a place we’d love to have discovered during our visit to Guatape, and which we’ll mark with a cross for next time! A little out of the way from the village, just past La Piedra, but in a magical place with sublime rooms to recharge your batteries! Note: offers a cheaper dormitory option
Guatape
Hostal
Casa Kayam
Looking for an arty, backpacker vibe? This is the place for you! Just a 20-minute walk from the village of Guatape, you’ll find a laid-back, backpacker atmosphere
Guatape
Hostal
Oak Tree House
Looking for a pretty double room close to the lake? Just a 10-minute walk from the village of Guatape, Oak Tree House offers great value for money.
Guatape
Hotel
Hotel El Paisaje
Looking for a double room to enjoy the center of Guatape village? You’ve come to the right place!
Guatape
Hostal
Casa de Mama Hostal
As the name suggests, it’s like being at home! Just a 10-minute walk from the village of Guatape, one of the cheapest and best-rated options
Guatape
Hostal
Galeria Guatape Hostel
A place sublimely placed on the lake with a breathtaking view of the Piedra del Peñol! What else…
How to get to Guatape
From Medellin
Nothing could be easier, just go to the Terminal de transporte del Norte de Medellin (Caribe metro stop) and find the bus that leaves for Guatape (ask at the info point or someone there)
- Duration: 2 hours (departures every hour)
- Price: between $10.000 COP and $15.000 COP
How to get to La Piedra
If you want to go to La Piedra del Peñol first, simply ask the bus driver to drop you off there. Normally, all buses going to Guatape also go to La Piedra.
Alternatively, from the village of Guatape, take a bus from the lakeside pier (10 min)
- Number of walks: 740
- Entrance fee: $25.000 COP
Bring water, sun cream and a windproof hat!
Cruise on Lake el Peñol
Tourist operators offer boat tours on the lake from the piers in the village of Guatape. Also available from La Piedra.
- Duration: approx. 1 hour
- Price: around $15.000 COP
Where to eat in Guatape
Pizzeria Luigi
Renowned as the best pizza in town!
- Price: around $20.000 COP on average
- Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, evenings only from 6:30 to 10 p.m. and Sundays from 12:30 to 2:30 p.m
- Address : Calle 31 No. 27 – 10
- Telephone: 320 845 4552
Kushbu
World cuisine
- Price: between $15.000 COP and $25.000 COP on average
- Opening hours : Every day from 9am to 9pm
- Address : Calle 32 No. 31 – 57
- Telephone : 323 438 5383
Guata’crepes
The english are everywhere! For crèpes (and pizzas). Also serves as a bakery when you’re craving a piece of baguette.
- Price: between $10.000 COP and $20.000 COP
- Opening hours : Thursday to Monday, 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m
- Address : Carerra 27 a No. 30 – 71
- Telephone : 314 268 6322
