There are no roads to the Pacific coast of Choco. On the tarama of Medellín’s regional airport, the engines of the small propeller plane start up, whirring, vibrating the cabin, and take-off in the heart of Medellín. We’re totally surrounded by mountains, turning 180° as we gain altitude, and it’s all good fun!
It’s quite funny to be flying at such a low altitude, you can see the landscapes and peaks around Medellín, then you get caught up in the clouds above the rainforest, before you catch a glimpse of light, a bit of sunshine, you emerge from the clouds and the Pacific coast reveals itself before your eyes.
We’re certain that the landscapes we see as we make our way down to Bahia Solano are full of treasures just waiting to be discovered, and the chills run down our spines… we’ve been looking forward to this trip for so long…
We didn’t know yet that we would fall in love with this region and that it would be others trips throught Nuqui region.
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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Discover the Pacific coast
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
When the plane’s doors open, it’s the expected thermal shock. After the obligatory military search, we queue up to sign the register and pay the new tourist tax intended to help local development.
We meet up with our contact who will take us by motocarro (tuk-tuk) to the small village of El Valle, some 45 minutes from Bahia Solano. The route starts out on a chaotic track, with the rains creating water holes that are difficult to cross, but the TukTuk are all terrain!
Halfway along, without warning, the road turns into pleasant asphalt, an ubiquitous sign of local politics, and in general of the corruption that reigns in Colombian politics.
Arriving in El Valle, we head for El Almejal beach, where our TukTuk driver drops us off at our first pied-à-terre of the week, at El Nativo, which we’ll tell you more about below in the “where to stay in El Valle” section.
Once we’ve settled in, we take a seat in the outdoor restaurant run by the family of El Nativo (the nickname of the family patriarch). The covered terrace overlooks a small garden that opens directly onto the beach.
Angélica’s dad arrives on the next plane from Satena, and we wait for him to explore the surrounding area. The reunion continues over a beer, and the place is just great for chatting and enjoying the sea breeze.
With the heat helping, we set off for our first swim in the Pacific! Here, as elsewhere in Colombia, the water is particularly warm and delicious.
The waves are a little reminiscent of home and our Gironde coast, so it’s a great opportunity to have some fun! In fact, it’s possible to take surfing lessons here.
While swimming, we meet Juanito, surely one of the youngest fishermen in El Valle! At 8 years old, he’s the youngest of 9 siblings. He has two brothers who are also fishermen. He’s so proud to show us his catch of the day that he agrees to pose for the photo.
Once all his brothers’ and sisters’ names and ages have been listed, Juanito and his T-shirt with holes in it run back home. We’ll see him again and again over the next few days, always with a big hello and always with that big smile on his handsome face.
The village of El Valle
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
We head off to the village to pick up some water cans to stock up so we don’t have to drink tap water. We decide to take every precaution, as Angélica’s stay in Medellín has got off to a flying start.
To get there, we pass along the sublime black sand beach lined with coconut palms that runs right up to the village entrance. We walk along taking in the scenery, noting the plastic garbage washed up by the sea, unaware that this will be one of the leitmotifs of our trip.
Arriving at the mouth of the river, we join the path leading to the village. We don’t yet know that we’ll be spending the night there on our way back from Utria NPN.
The village of El Valle, about a 20-minute walk from Playa El Almejal, has the simplicity of Colombia’s poorest villages.
Dirt streets, local businesses in their prime, the atmosphere is quiet and mixed: here live or survive mainly Afrodescendant and indigenous Embera communities.
We witness scenes of everyday life: meat being cut up on the sidewalk, natives coming to do their shopping by pirogue, students returning from Bahia Solano, children fishing in the lagoon.
Playa El almejal
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
Back from the village, with our water on our shoulders, we continue to enjoy the peace and quiet: letting time flow on the Pacific coast… what could be better? Besides, it’s been 2 years since Angélica last saw her father, so the mood is one of smiles and reunion.
As the sun goes down, we return to enjoy the beautiful light and discover our first ballet of local fishermen on Playa El Almejal.
Here, fishing is used first and foremost to feed the family, and secondly to support it if possible. Traditional fishing is done with a reel from the edge of the beach. A simple line in the hand and you cast the line, your body half immersed in the waves.
The system is basic, but highly effective in waters as rich in fish as those of Colombia’s Pacific coast! Professional fishermen, on the other hand, are in their lancha a little further offshore, fishing with nets.
The El Nativo family is very welcoming and friendly, the atmosphere is relaxed, no stress here. As with all accommodation in El Valle, all the usual local activities can be organized. Just ask!
As El Valle is one of Colombia’s whale-watching destinations, we obviously came for that. It was the first thing we discussed with Kike, El Nativo’s son, who welcomes tourists and guides the tours. An appointment was made for the following day, with whale-watching, followed by lunch and a visit to the El Tigre waterfall.
Despite the simplicity with which the family lives on their plot of land in El Valle, El Nativo happens to own the Cascada El Tigre, which isone of the most beautiful in the area, as we’ll find out… The idea for him is to refurbish a hut there so as to be able to welcome tourists and offer them hammock accommodation.
But enough of long speeches, what awaits us the next day will be one of the most beautiful days of our trip!
See whales and die
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
With full bellies, we set off in the morning on the El Nativo lancha to go whale-watching. At this time of year, they’re scattered all over Colombia’s Pacific coast, from single mothers with their newborn calves to groups of rutting males and mating females.
The calm waters off the Pacific coast are not only where humpback whales reproduce, but also where they give birth to their calves.
Just a few minutes after boarding, you can spot the plumes of humpback whale blowing in the distance !
Yes, let’s make no mistake, it’s not water that the whales blow out of the hole above their heads, but hot air which, on contact with the air, forms condensation and the well-known plume. And the hole through which this plume emerges is, quite simply, their nose. Well, thanks Jamy!
Luck is with us. We’ll be spending the next few momentswith a group of 5 humpbackwhales . There they are, beside us, swimming peacefully out to sea, their majesty beyond compare.
We feel tiny in our little boat. We’re alone with them, and the emotion is at its peak – we’ve waited so long for this moment, our hearts are beating a thousand miles an hour, our brains don’t know whether to laugh, cry, scream, take photos, film, enjoy the moment..
There areno words in these moments, the vocabulary shrinks considerably, just “OHLALAAAA” “C’EST PAS POSSIBLE!”, “WOW”, “NON, MAIS C’EST PAS POSSIBLE!”, and then RHOLALALALA!”.
We’re going to follow the whales for a few minutes, which will seem like hours, in turn heads, tails, backs, breaths and their voice… their song!
Having the chance tohear the whales sing is something that personally touched me for life. With the motor muted, we could clearly hear the plaintive, unmistakable song of the humpback whales.
Once again, we’re faced with the inadequacy of words to describe the emotion we feel in front of these magical beings.
One of them even gives us the gift ofa leap that Jubarte whales are famous for. Every photographer dreams of capturing this moment. I was the first. But in this case, I never thought I’d get this close to the whales, so I took a big zoom lens for the occasion and got way too close for the shot of a lifetime… missed!
Leave them to their birth… Leave them to their courtship, their frolics… Let them swim out to sea, bound for new welcoming waters somewhere on the Colombian coast or elsewhere..
Perhaps they’ll set off again on their journey around the world, between the cold seas of the poles and the warm seas of the tropics, for thousands of kilometers until they return here, as they do every year, for the incredible phenomenon of whale migration in Colombia.
As orphans in search of new encounters, we see the plumes calling us again, but we won’t be seeing our whale friends again today. No matter, the spectacle we’ve just witnessed was so unique that the day can end, the week, even the trip!
With asmile on our faces, we head off to our next stop and make new discoveries.
The next day we’ll head for Utria National Nature Park, an hour’s lancha ride from El Valle. Here we’ll enjoy some superb experiences, which we’ll tell you about in our post. In particular, we’ll be treated to the most marvellous of shows, simply sitting on the rocks at Playa Blanca, a fabulous ballet for almost an hour between a mother and her calf.
Playa El Tigre, paradise
VISIT EL VALLE, BAHIA SOLANO
The lancha picks up speed and a few dozen minutes later we approach a small cove of clear sand where a waterfall emerges from a lush jungle. A surreal vision: welcome to the Cascada del Tigre !
While the wood-fired meal is being prepared, we set off with Kike to explore the beach. We leave the creek and head for a larger adjacent beach, at the end of which we discover a huge cave filled with bats. The beach is filled with thousands of hermit crabs of all shapes and sizes, and lightning-fast red crabs.
A feeling of virginity emanates from this place and yet… here as elsewhere, plastic pollution is present: bottles, cans, caps, glasses, straws, flip-flops, bags, everything goes… jaws clench, incomprehension is always the same: here in Colombia or elsewhere in the world, when are we going to stop using these plastics? When will we stop behaving like pigs?
On the way back, Kike takes us to a fa-bu-le place: another waterfall that flows onto the beach and forms a basin where we can swim. A waterfall that flows onto the beach… when you put it like that, I don’t know if you can really see it, but the photos will help.
A waterfall on the beach, with a natural bathtub from which, of course, you can enjoy the view of the Pacific Ocean… seriously… in a moment like that, your heart rate goes up to 10.000 and you think: no, it’s not possible! Am I dreaming? Where the hell am I? “Una locura” as they say, something like a raving lunatic.
Back at the hut, we enjoy a well-deserved grilled fish! Then it’s time to head deep into the jungle.
From the main waterfall, we follow the river up the mountainside, where the vegetation is as wild as ever in this wild region of Choco, the fresh water is cool and there’s one swim after another. We could go all the way up to the top of the mountain, but we’re getting tired and decide to head back down.
It’s time to start letting the day rest. Slowly, let all these emotions rest. Slowly realize how lucky we are. Slowly become aware of the experience we’ve had. Shaking our heads to make sure we haven’t been dreaming. Looking at ourselves, smiling. Settle on the beach to contemplate the last light of day and give thanks for life, the earth, nature and the need to protect it.
Get in touch with a local agency
Visit El Valle with a local guide
Responsible tourism
Our partner is a local agency native to the Pacific coast of Chocó and takes pride in working with the local community to showcase the wonders of its region.
Where to stay in El Valle
El Valle
Eco Lodge
El Almejal
El Almejal is one of the best hotels in El Valle. Located on the beach of the same name, it is one of the pioneering hotels in the spirit of eco-responsible hotels in Colombia.
El Valle
Hostal
The Pelican House Hostel
The Pelican House Hostal is one of the best accommodation options in El Valle and has the great merit of partnering with the Madre Agua team in Bahia Solano, who do great work with the whales.
El Valle
Posada
Posada El nativo
A posada where we spent two nights. Basic comfort but nice location by the beach on the way to playa El Almejal. Possibility of eating on site.
El Valle
Hotel
El Morro B&B
A hotel we wanted to try out but which was fully booked when we came, a hut on the tip of El Almejal beach, with a splendid view directly over the Pacific Ocean and its fabulous sunsets!
Full board: price includes 3 meals a day
El Valle
Posada
Mama Orbe Eco Farm
From simple cabins on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, a home with Mama Orbe’s family and a unique sea turtle protection project in El Valle, or how to combine business with pleasure. If Mama Orbe is a little far from the village, it’s a real opportunity to disconnect and share with the family, and do the activities with them. Highly recommended!
How to get to El Valle
To get to Bahia Solano and El Valle, there are no roads! The easiest way is to fly into Bahia Solano, then take a motocarro (tuktuk) from Bahia Solano airport to your accommodation in El Valle.
From Medellín
PLANE | Medellín <> Bahia Solano
- Duration: 1 hour
- Fare: between $400.000 and $600.000 COP return depending on season
- Companies: Satena, San German Express, Easy Fly
- Tourist tax payable at Bahia Solano airport: $7.000 COP
ONLINE PAYMENTS ON COLOMBIAN WEBSITES
Refusals to pay often occur when we try to pay online. For example, this has happened to us several times on the San German Express site, the Satena site and the Avianca site. We solved the problem by using our VPN and locating it in Colombia. This enabled us to bypass local restrictions and the payment was accepted.
Motocarro from Bahia Solano to El Valle
Once you arrive at Bahia Solano airport, you’ll see a large number of motocarros (tuktuk) at the exit, which can take you as far as the village of El Valle
- Duration: 1 hour
- Price: $30.000 COP (1 to 3 people)
From Nuqui
LANCHA | Nuqui <> El Valle
- Duration: 2h00
- Price: $80.000 COP
- Departures: Monday and Friday
Please note that there are not departures every day. The easiest solution is to do Nuqui > PNN Utria, then PNN Utria > El Valle, as departures to the park are more frequent.
From Buenaventura
We realize that some of you are looking for this option. For those who like cargo ships and want to play the adventurer, here’s the information we’ve gathered.
LANCHA | Buenaventura <> El Valle
- Duration: 6h – 10h
- Fare: $200.000 COP, departures every day, journey can be physically demanding (if the sea is rough, the lancha is hard-hitting and 6 hours long!)
- Departure from the “Muelle Turistico”
- Contact: Transportes Bravo – Mobile: ( 57) 314 886 35 57
CARGO | Buenaventura <> El Valle
- Duration: 24h – 30h
- Fare: one berth in a “cabin” and meals for around $140.000 COP
Departure only once or twice a week, depending on the company, from the “El piñal” dock. There is talk of departures on Tuesdays, but in principle the days are not fixed, so check locally.
- Contacts : Transportes Renacer – Óscar Restrepo – Mobile : ( 57) 314 617 88 59
We’ve heard of a boat called El Mediteraneo, but we don’t know who operates it.
We’ve just come back from Alphonso’s…so many good memories, so many laughs, what a fabulous place
Thanks for the map
Hello Claude,
Super! It makes us super happy to get feedback like this 🙂
For those wondering who alfonso is, it’s here: https://mytriptocolombia.com/arusi-village-du-pacifique-autour-de-nuqui/#ou-loger-a-arusi
Bonjour, merci pour ce super recit et le partage d’expérience, je vais dans la région de bahia solano en septembre et cela m’aide beaucoup!
Quick question: can you give me the link or contact of El Nativo where you stayed and with whom you did the tours (ballenas and cascada del tigre)?
Thanks a lot!
Hi, thanks for your message 🙂 We don’t have the contact details for El Nativo but you’ll find the link to the Booking page at the end of our article in the “where to stay El Valle” section. You can also wait until you get there to drop by the posada on the way to El Almejal beach and ask for information there.
Hello
Your blog is great!
If you had to recommend a destination in Choco, between El Valle via Bahia Solano (The Hill B and B) and Nuqui chez Alfonso, which place would you prefer?
Thank you
Elodie
Hi Elodie! Thanks for your message 🙂 We’d definitely go back to Alfonso in Arusi 😉 You can contact him directly via our form here: https: //mytriptocolombia.com/arusi-village-du-pacifique-autour-de-nuqui/#ou-loger-a-arusi
Hello !! Super article which helps me a lot to plan my stay in Chocó
Small practical question, I read that there was no ATM or only one in Bahía which is often out of order… How much do you think I should plan to withdraw before going there for a week or two? Thank you!
Hi, for our 6 days we withdrew $2,000,000 (or something like that) before leaving just to be on the safe side. After that, it all depends on where you’re staying, where you’re eating, what you’re doing, etc. etc.!
Hello,
Thank you very much for your article which is a mine of information! :))
I couldn’t have found anything better! The site is well done, the photos are great, it makes you want to!
I still need, and want, to have your opinion 🙂
We’re going to Colombia for the first two weeks of October 2019. We want to go whale watching, but we only have 3 days for that. Do you think it’s possible in this time frame?
Maybe we could plan to arrive, like you, in Bahia Solano, spend a day there and enjoy the beach, then the next day go see the whales and the famous El Tigre waterfall, and on the third day, devote it to Utria national park, and on the fourth day we’d fly back.
Do you think it would be a good idea not to hire an agency, but to take a tuktuk ourselves, which would take us directly from the airport to our accommodation? What do you think in terms of security?
And how could we book these famous whale and boat excursions to the natural park?
Will we be able to go directly to agencies that offer these excursions on site? The aim is not to spend too much, of course
How much time do we need to arrive with the airline before departure?
Merci bcp pour tes conseils précieux :))
Pauline
Hi Pauline,
First of all, you can indeed go in 4 days. (D1 arrival around noon / D2 / D3 / D4 departure in the morning)
Normally, outward flights arrive in Bahia Solano in the late morning and return flights take off mid-morning.
If you want to do it on your own, no problem,
For tours, the easiest thing to do is ask the accommodation where you’ll be staying, as they all offer the same excursions.
We’d still advise you to request a price quote from Andando via our form. You never know, maybe the rates will seem reasonable and the service is excellent. They’re not just another agency; they’re local and work with local people.
In any case, on your own or via an agency, it’s an expensive destination, but it’s a magical place! 🙂
Hello,
Many thanks for the richness of your blog, very inspiring
I’m planning a trip to Colombia and I’ve referred to it several times to guide me in my choices.
I was planning to go to Nuqui and it seems that no company operates this route any more. Have you heard about this? Or have other Internet users?
Thank you
Hi Nathalie, thanks for your message! 🙂 For Nuqui, there’s the San German Express agency which operates small charter planes to Nuqui, we have readers who have used their service. Otherwise, you can do as we do and land in El Valle, which is also very good 😉 The other option, if you’d like a package of accommodation and activities with a local community tourism agency, is to use this contact form: https://mytriptocolombia.com/contacter-sejour-cote-pacifique/
Hello,
Great blog, I’m planning a trip in August 2019 and your blog is super helpful!
Quick question, I don’t know where to sleep on the Pacific coast: El Valle, Nuqui or Guachalito? Which is the prettiest / most convenient place to visit the area?
Thanks a lot!
Clémence
Hi Clémence, thanks for your message 🙂 The nicest places to stay are El Valle if you land in Bahia Solano or Guachalito if you land in Nuqui. We stayed in El Valle and were very happy, the good thing is that the nice accommodations in El Valle are right on El Almejal beach, but the village isn’t far away for shopping. We haven’t been to Guachalito yet, but it looks like there’s even less infrastructure. But Nuqui is never far away if you need to (30mn by lancha). In any case, these are isolated places where to “visit the region” you’ll have to take the lancha 🙂
Hello
Your articles have made us want to discover the area
We had booked our plane tickets with ADA (for July 2019) but the company is bankrupt. We received a message two days ago. We’re trying to get a refund
Fortunately we managed to buy new tickets from Satena at the same price
Thanks again for your extremely well-done blog. It answered all our questions.
Hi eric and thanks for your compliments! 🙂 And above all, thank you for the information on ADA that we hadn’t seen! After confirmation, we’re going to remove this option, unfortunately…
I’m half-Colombian and where can I get information about this beautiful country? Well, on your blog! It’s really great
Mil gracias
Hello ! Thank you for your message which makes us very happy 🙂
Hello
Thanks for the valuable info on your site…We’re heading to Colombia in July 2019, and we’re planning to go to Bahia Solano.
My question is: are there flights to and from other cities ( Pereira, Manizales, Cali …), as we also plan to visit the zona cafetera…? I’ll have a look at the websites of the 2 airlines you mention.
Hi Patrick, no, there’s no other way but to leave from Medellin, even flights from Bogotá make a stopover and a change in Medellin. 🙂