During our three-day stay in Canasare, we were lucky enough to visit the Hato Berlin nature reserve, near the village of Trinidad. Hatos” are gigantic farms typical of the “llanos”, the immense plains of eastern Colombia in the Orinoquia region.
In this post, you’ll find out why these farms are veritable nature reserves in Colombia.
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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The Hato Berlin
Visiting the Casanare
We arrived at the Hato Berlin for lunch on the first day. After a flight from Bogotá to Yopal, Jesus, the driver hired by our guide Heiler, drove us to our accommodation in Trinidad. We then went for lunch at the Hato Berlin.
It’s hot. Super hot! We hadn’t really expected it, but that said, it makes sense. The sun beats down in a different way here, but it beats down. Heiler is astute enough to plan his activities according to the day’s temperatures, and during our three days in the Casanare, we never find ourselves doing anything in the middle of the heat.
The Hato Berlín Nature Reserve, located 10 km from the village of Trinidad, can be visited at any time of year. Heiler introduces it to us as a nature reserve and tells us that we’ll simply take a stroll around the canal, then take a boat to watch the sunset. Nothing crazy to start with..
Nothing crazy? Let’s check it out!
Hato Berlin Nature Reserve
Discover the incredible wildlife of the Casanare
After an excellent traditional meal served in the shade of the farm’s trees, we set off for the walk. Spoiler: it’s going to be a big surprise.
We cross the pastures, the cows grouped in the distance in the shade of the huge branches of a tree. We reach the edge of the canal and enter a tiny grove.
It’s no exaggeration to say that, in just 10 minutes, we’ll come across an impressive array of wildlife! Never before have we witnessed such a density of wildlife: a family of howler monkeys, an anteater sleeping in a bush, large caimans on the banks of the canal, turtles and dozens of chigüiros (capybaras)… not to mention the birds…. Birdwatching enthusiasts welcome!
We assure you, it was insane! The ease with which we could observe the wild animals was impressive. And it’s something that will stay with us for the rest of our three-day “Safari”.
Contact Heiler, our local Partner to visit Hato Berlin in Casanare
The Hato Berlin Chigüiros
Animal totem of Colombia’s llanos
Do you know the Chigüiros? If you’ve seen Disney’s animated film Encanto, you’ll probably recognize this funny-looking animal!
Chigüiros, as they’re known in Colombia, are endemic to South America, and are found in large numbers in the plains region of Colombia.
The Chigüiro is the largest living rodent on the planet. According to Wikipedia, it can measure over a metre in length and weigh over 50 kg. It’s a semi-aquatic animal, and will be found near water where it can swim without worry.
The Hato Berlin nature reserve is the ideal place to observe them. Large numbers of them can be seen basking on the banks or swimming in the canal.
You can get quite close to them, although they are quick to escape when they sense you’re getting too close. But maybe it’s also because there were babies on the day we were at the Hato Berlin.
Finally, you should know that Chigüiro meat is still eaten in Colombia, and Angélica tells me it’s pretty good!
Contact Heiler, our local partner to visit Hato Berlin in Casanare
Sunset on Hato Berlin
The enchanted Casanare
Once we’ve recovered from our emotions, daylight slowly descends and we embark on a peaceful stroll along the canal. On the tree-top banks, monkeys play hide-and-seek, we’re surrounded by caimans who poke their eyes out around the canoe, and herons seek out their “dormitory tree” to spend the night in groups.
It’s worth noting that all types of large wader (herons, egrets, ibises…) have a habit of gathering in the same tree for the night as soon as it gets dark. This fills the tree with white and pink birds, a truly astonishing sight!
But the main attraction is up there in the sky!
We keep our fingers crossed that the sun will perform its most beautiful magic trick. The colors blaze, the sun glows, the sky turns yellow, and the atmosphere changes dramatically! The Casanare is renowned for its sunsets, and Colombians have even written songs to pay tribute to it
Then the clouds on the horizon will take the last of the sun’s rays, and night falls quietly as we make our way back to terra firma. We head back to Trinidad for a bite to eat and to recover from our emotions.
Discovering Hato Berlin was a great experience for us. More than just a farm, it’s a veritable nature reserve, with a wide variety of flora and fauna and ecosystems characteristic of the Colombian plains (the entire llanos region).
Contact heiler to visit Hato Berlin
How to get to Hato Berlin
Hato Berlin is located in, but you can’t get there on your own. Why not?
- Because it’s privately owned
- Because it’s first and foremost a working farm
- Because only local guides have the contacts to enter and be welcomed on site.
Having said that, you can get closer to the villages of Trinidad and San Luis de Palenque on your own, but we recommend you to contacf Heiler in advance to prepare your stay in Casanare.
Getting to Yopal by bus
It’s very easy to get to Yopal by bus.
BUS | Bogota – Yopal (8h)
- Fare: approx. $70.000 COP
- Companies: Concorde, Flota Libertadores (Sugamuxi), Copetran
- Departures: all day, with night buses also available.
BUS | Villavicencio – Yopal (5h if no construction work)
- Fare: approx. $50.000 COP
- Companies: Flota Libertadores (Flota Sugamuxi)
- Departures: all day
Getting to Trinidad or San Luis de Palenque by bus/taxi
From Yopal, you can take a bus to San Luis de Palenque or Trinidad, the only paved road in the area. Alternatively, most local guides will offer to pick you up at the airport. We did just that.
BUS | Yopal – Trinidad or San Luis de Palenque (2h)
- Fare: approx. $35.000 COP
- Company: Flota Sugamuxi
- Departures: all day
Getting to Yopal by plane
PLANE | Bogota – Yopal (1h)
- Fare: $150.000 COP one way
- Airlines : Avianca, Latam, Clicair
When to visit Casanare
The seasons in the Casanare region are very marked, bringing changes to the landscape and the way you visit it.
Dry season
Between January and March, the whole plain is completely dry, the rivers diminish, the lakes diminish and the wildlife concentrates around the few existing water points. The “Moriche” or “Morichal” palms are one of the key elements in the preservation of the “flooded savannah” ecosystems that retain water during the dry season.
During this period, Hatos can be explored on foot or by 4×4. Please note, however, that some activities are not possible due to the lack of water.
Rainy season
From May to October is the rainy season, when the rivers swell and some parts of the plains are flooded. This is when the abundance of wildlife is at its most spectacular. There’s a peak in June and July, when the rains are heaviest and the plains are almost completely flooded.
During this period, the Hatos are best explored on horseback or by boat.
We went to the Casanare in September 2019 and that year we were in the intermediate period when part of the plains were flooded, but not totally.
Transitional season
April, November and December are transitional months.
