For us, the Paramo de Oceta is one of the most beautiful páramos to be seen in Colombia. We tell you all about it in our post on our trek to Oceta, with lots of photos! But Oceta is inextricably linked with Mongui, the little Boyaca mountain village nestled at its feet, which is a treasure trove of treasures.
We set off by car from Bogotá with Angélica’s father and sister to spend two days in Mongui, visit the village and do a one-day trek to Oceta.
The journey went very well, the road was good and the 4-hour drive went by quickly, with some beautiful Boyaca scenery to contemplate along the way. From Sogamoso, the road to Mongui rises to almost 3000m, the perfect altitude for acclimatizing to a high-mountain trek (up to 4000m for the Páramo de Oceta).
We arrive in Mongui in the late morning, just enough time to settle into our accommodation and meet the guide, who will take us on a historical tour of the village and a balloon-making workshop.
Mongui has quite a history!
Important: there are no ATMs in Mongui
There are no ATMs in Mongui. So you’ll need to bring some cash with you, because while some restaurants accept payment by card, most shops don’t (at least that’s how it was when we went there).
Disclaimer: we apologize in advance for any grammatical or syntactic errors, as our native language is not English (we're a Colombian-French couple), so we hope you'll forgive us and still enjoy the information we share with you! Please note that all the information on our blog is based on our own experience, and is checked and updated regularly.
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Mongui general info
- Founded: 1601
- Population: 2800
- People: Monguiseños
- When to go: all year round
- Temperatures: 13°C avg.
- Altitude: 2900m
- Climate: cold and humid
- Region: Andes
- Department: Boyaca
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A history of colonization
Best things to do in Mongui
We toured the village with a small local agency offering guided tours of Mongui’s history and heritage. The village is small and you shouldn’t expect an eye-popping tour, but the historical landmarks and main monuments of the village are interesting.
First of all, it’s worth noting that, as everywhere else in Colombia, settlers did not discover an uninhabited land, and Mongui is no exception to the rule. Before the arrival of the Spaniards, the region was inhabited by the Muisca people, one of Colombia’s greatest civilizations.
The convent, built in 1760 along with the church of Our Lady of Mongui, displays a wealth of iconography linked to the village’s history, including a section devoted to the evangelization of the indigenous population. Chills.
In 1550, Franciscan monks arrived to evangelize the indigenous populations (as they did throughout Colombia). The indigenous populations were rounded up (by force) to facilitate their conversion to Catholicism and access to their workforce. At first, the village was largely made up of indigenous populations “watched over” by the Franciscans. The Spanish crown commissioned the construction of a chapel and then a bridge to transport the stones needed to build the great basilica.
Surprisingly, the indigenous populations were initially granted a special regime. Spain “granted” them land in the form of “inalienable” territorial titles to enable them to carry out their productive activities. But in the 18th century, these titles were finally abolished by the Spanish crown, the natives were expelled from their lands, moved to Mongua, and the land was auctioned off to the few settlers living in the vicinity. From this point onwards, Mongui developed uninterruptedly into what it is today.
This royal decree guaranteeing ownership of the land to the indigenous population is still the subject of a struggle by the descendants to recover the land from the current owners, descendants of the settlers who bought the land in the 18th century.
Mongui, Colombia’s heritage village
BEst things to do in Mongui
Mongui is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Colombia, or at least in Boyaca, not least for its well-preserved colonial heritage. The village’s main square and several streets bear witness to this architectural wealth. Of course, the basilica, the convent and the “Puente de Calicanto” are the village’s most outstanding monuments, not least for their symbolic value.
Puente de Calicanto
The Calicanto Bridge is one of the oldest buildings in the village, dating back to the arrival of the Franciscans in 1550. The first bridge is said to have been built in 1557, and was constructed by the natives from stone, lime and bull’s blood. Legend has it that a snake and a golden ox are buried on either side of the bridge. But the bridge as we see it today dates back to 1715.
As always, the Spaniards used sacred sites and indigenous communications networks to establish their mark and destroy culture through the system of replacement. Here, the Calicanto Bridge linked one of the most important routes in the Muisca world.
Basilica Menor and convent
Some say that construction of the Basilica Menor and Franciscan convent began in the early 16th century and lasted over a hundred years, while other dates put the start of work at the end of the 17th century, with an “opening” in 1760.
Today, the convent has been transformed into a “museum of religious art”. We enjoyed the visit, not so much for the guide, but rather for the information you find in the rooms. It explains the strategies used by the colonists to indoctrinate the natives, and the whole process of syncretism resulting from the blending of native and Catholic cultures.
Afterwards, to tell you the truth, between the weight of the history of colonization, the symbolism of the place and the iconography presented, we found the atmosphere inside rather heavy!
Boyacense culture
We love the atmosphere of Boyaca and the gentleness that emanates from its culture and people, symbolized by its traditional garb: the ruana. A perfect ally for the cold of the Andes.
Mongui’s balloon factories
Best things to do in Mongui
As soon as we arrive in the center of Mongui’s main square, the tone is set: sculptures pay tribute to Mongui’s main craft, the one that has made its reputation throughout Colombia and helped position it as a heritage village: balloon-making!
The story goes that in 1934, Frolián Ladino returned from his military service in the Amazonian region of Leticia with a new skill he had learned in Brazil: making hand-sewn soccer balls.
On his return, he set up a tannery and passed on his knowledge to twelve people in the village, who would later become known as the “Twelve Apostles”. Later, his brother Manuel Ladino set up a company employing 350 farming families, thus spreading the know-how.
Today, there are 32 balloon factories in Mongui. Most of the population have worked at least once in their lives in one of these factories. It’s one of the village’s main economic activities.
Workshop visit
During our guided tour of Mongui, we visited a balloon factory. We were shown the entire manufacturing process, from the rubber to the finished balloon:
- A more or less rounded shape is made from “inner-tube” rubber
- The ball is wound with nylon thread to shape and round it
- The ball is dipped in glue, then dried
- The leather elements covering the ball are glued on by hand (previously, they were sewn on by hand).
- Finally, the ball is compressed in a special machine and voilà!
It’s the expert hands of the women who mainly take care of the final balloon-making stage. It’s hard work, as the products used are quite harmful to health, and the working hours are long.
At the end of our visit, we were able to make a small balloon ourselves (the last part of the manufacturing process). And we can tell you that it’s very difficult to get all the pieces right to make a beautiful balloon! But we loved this little moment of sharing together.
As usual, when you visit craftsmen and if you’re lucky enough to take part in workshops, you can really understand and appreciate the value of their work. It’s also a way of encouraging them and keeping all this know-how alive. We love it!
Páramo de Oceta
Best things to do in Mongui
If Mongui has put itself on the Colombian tourism map, it’s for its heritage, of course, but above all for being known as the main gateway to the sublime Paramo de Oceta.
For us, it’s one of the most beautiful páramos in Colombia, a natural wonder that really deserves a visit. We recommend you read our post dedicated to our trek to the Paramo de Oceta with Maria, Mongui’s best guide!
Contact a Local Guide to Paramo de Oceta
Mongui is located at an altitude of almost 3.000 m, so don’ t forget your warm clothes, as it gets very cold in the evening. It is possible to make several one-day treks to the Páramo de Ocetá. We really recommend using the services of Maria, Mongui’s best guide!
Maria Tours – Mountain guide
- Whatsapp : 57 313 479 8492
- Email: mariasosi1004@gmail.com
- Address: Carrera 3a No 1-57 vía al puente de Calicanto, Mongui
Important: there are no ATMs in Mongui
There are no ATMs in Mongui. You’ll need to bring some cash in advance, because while some restaurants accept payment by card, most shops don’t (at least that’s how it was when we went there).
Where to stay in Mongui
Mongui
Eco Lodge
Las Cabañas Hospedaje
Double room : $0 to $100.000 COP
Individual wooden cabins for this unusual accommodation at the entrance to the village of Mongui
Mongui
Finca
Los recuerdos de Florito y Leo Hotel
Double room : $100.000 to $150.000 COP
An accommodation recommended by our readers, offering comfortable rooms with mountain views and a warm welcome.
Mongui
Hotel
Hotel Mongui Plaza
Double room : $100.000 to $150.000 COP
This is certainly the best-located hotel in Mongui, opening directly onto the village’s main square, opposite the cathedral. Beautiful colonial house, heating, hot water, breakfast, everything you need for a pleasant stay.
Mongui
Hotel
Hotel Otti Colonial
Double room : $150.000 to $200.000 COP
The Hotel Otti Colonial is one of Mongui’s best-known hotels, located in the historic center just a stone’s throw from the Puente Calicanto, offering attractive rooms and a warm welcome from the owners.
Where to eat in Mongui
We noticed that when we went there at the weekend, the restaurants were all open at lunchtime, but that in the evening the choice was reduced and many restaurants were closed.
The cafeteria in the park next to the church opens at 6.30 a.m., which is convenient if you want to have breakfast before trekking to the Páramo de Oceta.
Amuysyn Magüe
- Artisanal pizza, crêpes and local produce
- A friendly address run by young people who work with good local produce
- Address: Carrera 3 #2-65, Monguí
La Casona
- Colombian cuisine
- Traditional cuisine of superlative quality, with a magnificent view from the terrace.
- Address: Carrera 4 #3-41, Mongui
Cafe Amor
- Coffee, tea, sandwiches, crepes, salad, hamburgers
- Nice little café on the main square, with simple food based on good products.
- Address: Calle 5 # 3-02, Mongui
La Cascada
- Café and bakery
- Local café for traditional breakfast in the main square or lunch.
- Address: Carrera 3 & Calle 4 #31, Mongui
Since our visit, a number of new cafés have opened in Mongui, some of them apparently offering quality coffee. These include Gloria Café , which seems to have made a name for itself. So don’t hesitate to try it out and let us know if it’s worth your while!
How to get to Mongui
To get to Mongui, the nearest town is Sogamoso.
To/from Sogamoso
BUS | Sogamoso – Mongui (45 min)
- Departures: every 15 min
- Fare: approx. $5.000 COP
From/to Bogota
From Bogotá, take the bus to Sogamoso and then the buseta to Mongui.
BUS | Bogota – Sogamoso (4h)
- Departures: every 30 minutes from 4 a.m. to 8 p.m
- Fare: approx. $30.000 COP
We drove to Mongui from Bogotá.
CAR | Bogota – Mongui
- Duration: about 3 hours
- Tolls: 3 x $8.300 COP
- Road : good
From/to Villa de Leyva
From Villa de Leyva, take a bus to Tunja, then another to Sogamoso, before reaching Mongui.
BUS | Villa de Leyva – Tunja (1h)
- Fare: approx. $7.000 COP
- Companies: local busetas
- Departures: frequent all day
BUS | Tunja – Sogamoso (1h30)
- Departures: 10 departures between 7 a.m. and 8 p.m
- Fares: approx. $8.000 COP
